LIMA/SACRED VALLEY/MACHU PICCHU/RAINBOW MOUNTAIN/CUSCO

OVERVIEW

• When: 14 August – 24 August; 28-29 August, 2026
• Where (accommodations): Lima: Intercontinental Real Miraflores; Wyndham Grand Costa del Sol Lima Airport; Ollantaytambo: El Albergue Ollantaytambo; Maras: Mountain View Experience; Cusco: Antigua Casona San Blas; Casa Cartagena Boutique Hotel and Spa
• Transportation: American Airlines flight to Lima (LIM) via Miami (MIA); LATAM Airlines from Lima to Cusco (CUZ); Ground transportation in Sacred Valley: Christian +51 984 114 834; Peru Rail train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes https://www.perurail.com/; Bus tickets from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu: https://comprar.caminoalamaravilla.com/
• Sights/attractions: Lima: Huaca Pucllana, Parque Kennedy, Kuna store, Sol Alpaca store, Larcomar, Malecon Miraflores, Parque del Amor, Circuito Magico del Agua, Centro Historico (Basilica y Convento De San Francisco, Plaza Mayor, Museo y Convento de Santo Domingo de Lima, Basilica Catedral de Lima, Casa de la Literatura Peruana, Jirón de la Unión) El Closet de mi Hermana shop, Barranco neighborhood (Puente de los Suspiros, murals, Dédalo) Miraflores Indian Market; Sacred Valley: Taray viewpoint, Millma’s Group (store and farm), Pisac Archeological Site, Pisac Artisans Market, Pinkuylluna granaries, Ollantaytambo Archeological Site, Salineras de Maras, Moray Circular Terraces, Chinchero ruins and town; Machu Picchu; Vinicunca (Rainbow Mountain) tour; Cusco: Piedra de los 12 Angulos, Calle Siete Borreguitos, Acueducto de Sapantiana, Mirador de San Cristóbal, Campanario de San Cristóbal, Plaza Trecentenario, Sacsayhuaman, Cristo Blanco, Q’Enqo, Plaza de Armas, Koricancha Cusco
• Food/drinks: Lima: Barra Botanica, Restaurante Alfresco, Astrid & Gaston, La Mar Cebicheria Lima, Ukaw Chocolate, Isolina Taberna Peruana; Ollantaytambo: ALQA – Museo de Arte Popular Andino, Inkasal Restaurant; Cusco: Kusykay Peruvian Restaurant, Organika, Tamales Josefina, Ukllay Restaurant, Catfetin cafe, Yaku
  

To say that visiting Machu Picchu – one of the New Seven Wonders of the World – has been a long-standing dream would be an understatement. It only took me 85 countries to get around to this dream, though! Well, the main delay was deciding when to visit. We usually take a two-week vacation in August and another around Christmas/New Year. August is wintertime in most of South America, and I have been hesitant to leave warm weather in Boston for a winter destination. But June-August is also considered the dry season in Peru (or at least in the Machu Picchu area), with the highest chance of clear blue skies (ahahaha). December, while warmer, falls in the rainy season, which we automatically dismissed because one thing is to worry about occasional rain, and another is to willingly fly into a downpour. Knowing us, you must know by now that taking a two-week trip to one country is rare. This trip was no exception. We combined Peru with Bolivia (country #87), and, in my humble opinion, that was an excellent idea. Both sit at high altitude, which means you only need to get acclimated once. Neither country requires a visa for Lithuanian or American passport holders, making it another good reason to check them out on the same trip.

We flew from Boston to Lima, Peru, with a short layover in Miami. Lima is at sea level, so your acclimatization does not begin there. It truly is the food capital of the world, and anyone who loves Peruvian food should spend at least a couple of days in the country’s capital. We spent two full days (it was an overnight flight, so we arrived early in the morning), and I feel it was enough time to sightsee, eat, and shop. We could have spent another day or two if we had more time, but if you are on a tight schedule, two nights are pretty sufficient. From Lima, we flew to Cusco, which sits at over 11,000 feet (around 3,400 m) above sea level. Many people make the mistake of staying at the hotel there, which puts you at risk of serious altitude sickness. Instead, we had a driver take us to Ollantaytambo, the town in the Sacred Valley, which is still high at 9,160 feet (2,792 m) above sea level, but much more manageable than Cusco. Two nights there allowed us to adjust, and going to Machu Picchu, which is only 7,972 feet (2,430m), was a breeze. We then spent 2 more nights in the Sacred Valley in Maras (10,800 ft/3,300m), followed by 4 nights in Cusco with a day trip to Vinicunca (Rainbow Mountain), our highest altitude of nearly 17,000 ft (over 5,000m) above sea level. I will talk about our altitude sickness symptoms later, but this gradual adjustment was crucial to having a great experience and never having to seek medical attention. From Cusco, we continued on to La Paz and Uyuni, Bolivia, both of which are around 12,000 ft (3,600m), but by then we were nearly 100% adjusted and could fully enjoy the experience. But let’s start from the beginning—eating our way through Lima!

LIMA

We’ve heard various opinions about Peru’s capital- some called it boring, some unsafe, but we found it neither. Of course, I am sure anything can happen in a city of 11 million people, but the same could be said of most large cities anywhere in the world. One negative thing I could say about Lima is the traffic. It is BRUTAL. Luckily, we arrived early in the morning, so the taxi ride to our hotel in Miraflores did not take very long. But going from there to a restaurant in the afternoon, we experienced it in its full glory.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Intercontinental Real Miraflores

Miraflores is a popular district where most of the tourists stay when visiting Lima. There are many hotels overlooking the ocean, including InterContinental Real Miraflores. I think we chose it because they have a rooftop pool, but we didn’t realize that in August it might be too chilly to swim. While the weather was pleasant (though cloudy the entire time), the pool was cold, and we never went in.

Lima is known for its drizzle, “llovizna,” and in August, it is normally cold and rainy. However, this year, the El Niño weather pattern brought warm days, and we only felt a few drops of mist in the evenings. No complaints from our side (minus the very gray skies). Overall, the hotel was comfortable, and the deep tub was a lot more useful than the cold rooftop pool!

Wyndham Grand Costa del Sol Lima Airport

After we finished traveling in Peru and Bolivia, we came back to Lima for one last overnight before taking a 6am flight back to Miami. Wyndham Grand Costa del Sol Lima Airport is in an extremely convenient location- steps away from the arrivals/departure entrance, has an excellent restaurant on site, and has 24-hour spa access. We had dinner and toyed with the idea of not going to sleep and just relaxing in the jacuzzi/pool, but common sense prevailed, and we did get a few hours of much needed sleep.

Hit the Ground Running: Lima Sights on Day 1

I lied- we did not hit the ground running. We hit the pillow first for a couple of hours’ nap. We booked a hotel for the night before arrival, so that we could check in as soon as we arrived, which was a bit before 6am. But we didn’t come here to sleep, so after a quick rest we were up and ready to see Lima. But first- great breakfast! We didn’t want to start our trip with a hotel buffet, so we found a cafe on the way to our sightseeing destination. Barra Botanica was amazing. Delicious food, plenty of gluten-free options and a super friendly staff.

This egg and potato pie was incredible!

Our first tourist attraction in Lima was Huaca Pucllana, a pyramid made out of adobe bricks and clay, around 1,500 years old, and surrounded by a modern city. We got there at 10.15 am (the museum and site open at 9am ) and just beat the rush. Entrance is strictly by guided group, which is limited to 26 people, so if you arrive later in the day, you might not be able to visit.

We tried to go in with a Spanish group, but were told they don’t know when the next Spanish group will be allowed in, because there are already too many Spanish groups inside. The next English-speaking one was at 11 am, so luckily we made it into this one. It was a lot of historical facts, so the tour was interesting, and the wait was worth it.

As we were leaving, the line was very long, so my advice would be to go here as soon as they open.

Indian Market and Kennedy Park were next on our agenda. First, we went shopping (I needed a poncho for the upcoming Machu Picchu trip), then to the park to see some kitties!

The nice thing about the markets in Peru was that nobody was pushy. There was no pressure to buy anything, but there was also no real bargaining. You could negotiate 3 – 5 soles, but that was about it.

Markets also often have low-quality items, especially when it comes to baby alpaca clothing. For that, we went to certified stores such as Kuna and Sol Alpaca, where the cost was a lot higher, but we knew we were buying authentic fabrics.

Lunch at Alfresco was amazing- from ceviches to the fish, and of course the pisco sour- Lima’s food has been, without a doubt, great. We had an early dinner booked, and, taking into account Lima’s traffic, we didn’t have much time left to sightsee, so we just took a stroll along the waterfront promenade (Malecon) and checked out the Love Park (Parque Del Amor) and the mall, Larcomar, overlooking the ocean.

For the first night’s dinner in Lima, we made reservations at Astrid & Gaston, a world-renowned restaurant where you can choose a multi-course dinner or à la carte. We chose the latter and were very happy with the decision. Mostly, we were worried that if we took many courses, we might fall asleep at our plates, given that we had slept so little.

The place is very beautiful, and the meals were great. Here we also tried the guinea pig- a very popular meal in Peru (sorry, cute guinea!). Since we finished dinner somewhat early and had the energy for one more sight, we decided to take an Uber to the Magic Water Circuit of the Reserve Park, where there are daily music, lights, and water shows.

Apparently, this park with 13 fountains has been recognized by the Guinness Book of World Records as the largest water fountain park in the world!

I cannot say that it was life-changing, but it was a fun way to end our first day in Lima!

Centro Historico and Barranco Neighborhood: Lima Day 2

The second day in Lima started with a quick snack and coffee in the room- no time for a proper breakfast; that’s how our vacation is going, apparently! But jokes aside- we do have a lot to accomplish today. The Historical Center is not extremely far, but without traffic it took us around 30 minutes by Uber. With traffic, it can easily be over an hour drive, so when I say Lima’s traffic is bad, it IS bad. First, we checked out Basilica y Convento De San Francisco.

Gorgeous architecture and for sure worth a visit. After crossing Plaza Mayor we explored Museo y Convento de Santo Domingo de Lima and finally Basilica Catedral de Lima.

We especially liked Santo Domingo Convent and the Museum with its charming inner courtyard, library, and crypts.

Lima Cathedral is impressive as well, and overall we were surprised by how clean and beautiful the Historical Center of Lima was!

Access to the crypts was narrow and had low ceilings, so Sean had to go backward to avoid hitting his head.

Before heading to lunch, we also stopped by the Casa de la Literatura Peruana (House of Literature) located in the former train station- the ceiling is incredible and that’s what we mostly wanted to see.

For lunch, we agreed to meet up with our friends who live in Lima (we met in Miami Beach) at La Mar Cebicheria Lima. Of course, you guessed it – it was AMAZING!

It was so great to catch up and to hang out with Rebecca, Chad, andtheir son,, who was only a baby when we last saw them! Who would have thought that chatting on the beach in Miami in 2023 would result in a friendship that reunited us in Lima, Peru, 3.5 years later!

Our friends gave us a lift to their beautiful, artsy Barranco neighborhood and pointed us towards some cool cafes and shops that I was more than happy to visit. El Closet de mi Hermana and Dedalo are a couple of places we really liked, and for a delicious hot chocolate and GF dessert, we tried Ukaw Chocolate.

Barranco neighborhood was a pleasure to stroll around- lots of murals, artists painting on the street- just a lively and colorful atmosphere.

The Bridge of Sighs (where you are supposed to cross without breathing so your wish comes true) was closed for renovations, but we checked out the main plaza and the cute artsy streets.

For our second dinner in Lima, we chose Isolina Taberna Peruana. Our friends warned us that it is a heavy dinner, but we still managed to order a bit more than we could finish. Dishes were very hearty, and portions were large.

I can confirm that we are leaving Lima very well fed!

SACRED VALLEY

We flew from Lima to Cusco on Sunday morning, and as soon as we arrived, we had a driver take us to a lower elevation to acclimatize. Well, before she took us to Ollantaytambo, which is at 9,160 ft (2,792m), we stopped at Taray viewpoint for some photos, Millma’s Group (store and farm) for a little shopping of true baby alpaca clothes, and Pisac Archaeological Site and Pisaq Artisans Market because I wanted to visit these sights along the way.

We got to feed llamas, alpacas, and vicunas, and learned how to recognize when a sweater is made from real wool. The store had amazing sweaters and scarves, and I also found a hat I have been searching for as well!

PISAC

Pisac sits at 9,751 feet (2,972 m) above sea level, and we felt the altitude as soon as we arrived at the Pisac Archaeological Site. Sean was out of breath, but his asthma inhaler helped immediately. I felt slightly dizzy and not myself, but then I bought some coca tea and also instantly felt better!

Coca tea is widely offered all over Peru for altitude sickness- every restaurant and hotel had this tea available. Coca leaf tea has a small trace of cocaine, which provides a stimulant effect (hence Sean did not touch it), but it does not get you high in any way, shape, or form. It is not legal to transport it to the USA, and even though I had amazing coca chocolate, I did not risk bringing it back. Muna tea, which is made from Andean mint, is also served to alleviate altitude symptoms, and we had it in the evening since it doesn’t have a stimulant effect.

The Pisac Archaeological site was beautiful and not crowded, but we didn’t spend much time there because we wanted to reach a slightly lower altitude to acclimatize. Our lunch was a giant corn with cheese and butter (choclo), which was delicious! We stopped at the Artisan market, and I could not resist taking a picture holding a baby lamb (thinking I was holding a baby alpaca 🙂 ). Of course, a tip is expected, but the amount is voluntary.

We really liked Pisac and would recommend it either as a day trip from Cusco or, like we did, a stop on the way to Ollantaytambo.

A double rainbow greeted us in the Sacred Valley, and just after sunset, we reached our hotel in Ollantaytambo.

OLLANTAYTAMBO

Unless you stay right in Aguas Calientes, Ollantaytambo is the closest place to visit Machu Picchu. I’ve read that there isn’t much to do in Aguas Calientes, so we decided to base ourselves in a cute town for two nights, with an archeological site nearby. On our first evening, we ate at a very cool restaurant-  ALQA – Museo de Arte Popular Andino. It’s a museum as well as the restaurant, and their multi-course meals were super creative (and delicious)- all centered around connection with Mother Earth (Pachamama), with local produce.

Despite feeling tired and pretty cold (it got to around 10C in the evening), we really enjoyed this dinner.

El Albergue Ollantaytambo

El Albergue Ollantaytambo Hotel is located literally next to the train station, the train that you need to board to get to Aguas Calientes, where you would get on a bus to Machu Picchu. I am sure there are more luxurious hotels in Ollantaytambo or the nearby town of Urubamba, but we wanted to be as close to the train as we could, minimizing the need to stand in line to board. It worked out really well- there is a gate to enter the station, so anyone who was not staying at the hotel had to wait in a long line (in the rain one day) before the train arrived. Since we stayed inside the gated area, we could show up 10 min before the train left and board.

The hotel also has a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner. We were never woken up by the train, shockingly either. I also had to take my last class for summer semester there, and their internet worked great too!

These are the three bites of lettuce I ate for breakfast before our hike, and that’s what Sean thought made me sick :). Fast forward- it was the altitude sickness…

Pinkuylluna granaries

On our first morning in Ollantaytambo, we woke up to the dreaded rain. As mentioned earlier, August is typically a dry season in the Sacred Valley, but this year, due to El Niño, the weather has been unpredictable. We are here regardless, so sitting in a hotel is not an option. We decided to do a hike up to the Pinkuylluna granaries– ancient Inca stone storehouses built into the cliffs that overlook Ollantaytambo.

We brought the rain jackets, and I can’t say enough about the Alo trekking shoes. They kept my feet warm and dry and didn’t even look dirty by the end of this muddy hike. The climb up is only about 20 minutes, but it was not easy. We were resting and walking up the stairs so much slower than it would normally take us at sea level.

Despite the drenching rain, the views and the hike were absolutely worth it. You could see the town and the Ollantaytambo Archaeological Site below. But as we were walking back, I started to feel nauseous. That’s where Sean came in with a ‘diagnosis’: ‘You ate the lettuce in Peru! You have food poisoning!’ Nope, I now know it was definitely my body reacting to altitude.

We got down, and all I wanted was to be warm and have some soup, so we went to a restaurant in town, but it had all the windows open. There goes my wish for warmth 🙂 The soup took forever to arrive, even though we were the first customers there, and by the time it arrived, I was ready to lie down.

I had a few bites of it; Sean finished the rest, and I could not even imagine walking any more. We went back to the hotel, I took an altitude pill that I brought from Lithuania, and went to bed. It was a very strange feeling- no throwing up, but nausea, not feeling hot, but my skin was burning (apparently that is a side effect of that pill). I was between sleep and wake for about 4 hours and slowly started to feel better. We drank an obscene amount of water, which is key in high altitude, and I also had a dull headache- another altitude sickness symptom. But little by little, I got back on my feet and even decided to check out the Archaeological site, because it was our only day to do so.

Ollantaytambo Archological Site

This Inca fortress and temple complex is right in town, so it was a short walk and another veeery slow climb. Given the fact that it is older than Machu Picchu, I am glad I summoned the strength to check it out.

The rain tapered off as well, so it was a ‘now or never’ window to explore.

I am glad we stayed at Ollantaytambo– the town is definitely worth seeing and has a lot more things to do than we later saw in Aguas Calientes.

MACHU PICCHU VERSION 1.00

The day has finally come! I booked the tickets for Machu Picchu Circuit 2A (the most desirable circuit with access to several viewpoints as well as the ruins) the day that the government website opened bookings for August. And that was January 19th, 2026! I actually set my alarm to book it because I believe it was 7 or 8 am. I know that might sound completely crazy, but the tickets do sell out, and I watched the time slots disappear as I was booking them. August is one of the busiest travel months for Machu Picchu- Europeans are on vacation, which increases the volume of tourists significantly. It is also considered one of the best months for ‘guaranteed sunny skies’, which was the main reason why we chose to visit Peru during their winter season. What I did not know on January 19th was that I made possibly the best travel purchase of all time. I booked tickets for 1pm entrance on August 18th, Tuesday and August 19th, Wednesday ‘just in case’. I was definitely not thinking about weather- in my mind it was going to be sunny. I was more worried that we might have altitude sickness and I decided to have an extra day just to be safe.

Well, August 18th has come, and the weather gods were not in our favor. Luckily, we didn’t have to stand in line in the rain waiting for the Peru Rail Vistadome train to arrive (thanks to our hotel’s location), but as we boarded the 9.15 am train, it became clear that the day’s forecast would not improve. I booked a Vistadome car, which has large glass windows and offers snacks, but the views through them were quite gloomy. Regardless, we were on the way to Machu Picchu!

This day was not as planned from many perspectives. Our driver, Christian, recommended a guide, Gregory, and provided his WhatsApp number. We messaged a few days prior, and on the way to Aguas Calientes, I was checking in to make sure we met up at the train station when we arrived. Gregory was nowhere to be found, but another guide messaged me saying he would wait for us and another couple. The guide was supposed to be a private tour, so when we met up, he gave us yet another number for our supposed Gregory guide. Long story short- we did end up having a private guide, who said he was Gregory, though his WhatsApp said a completely different name. Later on, Christian admitted that his friend had bailed on us, so he set up someone else. Still not sure why the new guide did not simply explain this and use his real name, but oh well. This was just not our day.

When we arrived in Aguas Calientes, we realized we had a bit of time before taking a bus to our 1pm entrance, so we used it for a quick lunch (and to stay out of the rain).

Glad we did that, because the hours that followed were spent in cold, very dreary weather. The bus to Machu Picchu is scheduled to take you based on the entrance time on your ticket. It took us about 45 min to board the bus, and we made it to the entrance just around 1pm. To then stand in ANOTHER line where they checked the tickets and our passports. It is ONE place in Peru where passports were mandatory, and the name had to match the one on the ticket.

Oh, as we arrived in the town of Aguas Calientes, we passed through the market, where there were MANY options to buy a rain poncho for a few soles. Well, the fashionista over here decided we wouldn’t look good in photos in these ponchos! I guess the look of a wet rat is more fashionable because that is how we looked when we entered the site.

We got a glimpse of the mountain for a minute or so and then the fog rolled in reducing visibility to practically nothing.

The guide was informative, but with this weather, all I wanted was for the tour to end. I feel SO bad for everyone who only had a ticket for this day and may have dreamt of seeing Machu Picchu all their lives. I do not care what people say- oh, it is still nice, oh this is still an incredible experience- NO. This was sh*T. I did not enjoy it one bit.

We barely finished the circuit (and later found out that this guide did not even take us to the main viewpoint!). There was no salvaging this day. While you are inside, you can wait and spend as much time as you want (it typically takes 2 hours to do the circuit), but the weather was not improving.

The rain only intensified, so we decided to take the bus and have dinner in town before boarding our 5.23 pm train back to Ollantaytambo.

The line to get on the bus down was another nearly an hour-long line. All while standing in a soaking rain. When I say it was bad- it really was. But this was not over. The train was over an hour late arriving, and when we finally started moving, a tree fell onto the tracks, so it had to stop until it was cleared. The journey that was supposed to take 1.5 hrs ended up being 4 hours with no snacks or entertainment (we booked a regular cart back, not the Vistadome, since it was dark and there were no views to enjoy).

We also had finished our two-night stay at the hotel Ollantaytambo, and the driver was waiting for us to take us to our next destination, an hour away in Maras. Damp and cold, we reached Mountain View Experience just before 11 p.m.

Mountain View Experience

I am not going to lie- I totally got influenced on Instagram by this hotel. I don’t know how it ended up in my feed or who I follow who stayed there, but I had it saved well before we even booked the flights to Peru. I had in my mind that I wanted to be in a jacuzzi feeding llamas, and as soon as we made plans for Peru, I made sure we stayed here.

Originally, the plan was to see Machu Picchu on Tuesday, then move away from Ollantaytambo and stay closer to Cusco, exploring the Sacred Valley along the way, which includes the town of Maras. However, after yesterday’s weather fiasco and knowing that we had tickets for the Machu Picchu entrance at 2pm the following day, we could not pass up the opportunity to try it again. Those tickets were sold out all the way to November, so sitting on them and remembering MP as a complete wash was not something I was about to always regret. We decided to still stay for two nights in Mountain View Experience, but had our driver pick us up after breakfast and bring us back to the train for a re-do. We had to buy the new train and bus tickets, which ended up being around $500 USD, since the cheapest train cars were sold out, but as you will see later, it was all worth it.

However, first, about the Mountain View Experience! It truly was an EXPERIENCE. And a very good one.

This hotel, which consists of several individual bungalows, is located at 11,090 feet (3,380 m) above sea level, significantly higher than Ollantaytambo, which was a good gradual way up before going to Cusco, which is at a similar altitude. I was already adjusted; Sean felt a bit out of breath and woke up at night feeling slightly nauseous, but it passed quickly. The staff lit a fire stove for us to keep warm at night (it was around 0C outside when we arrived), heavy blankets were provided, and the number of stars we could see above was jaw-dropping. I know we added an hour drive each way to get back to the train, but this was 100% worth it. We woke up to sunny skies, and it felt like our vacation took a turning point!

During breakfast, llamas came to visit (some of them were allowed to go inside the restaurant and had a special bucket of food they liked). The next morning, there were donkeys (including a 3-month-old baby), horses, and a dog. This is a huge farm, and they are building an event hall, so this place will only get bigger.

I am skipping one day ahead, but the morning before we checked out, we booked the ‘llama feeding’ experience. It is free for the guests, but you need to set up the time with the front desk, which we did upon arrival.

They bring llamas to your bungalow with a basket of their food, and you have about 10 minutes to feed them/take photos. It was enough time, though I thought it would be a bit longer. Llamas did not mess around- they were devouring the food, and as soon as it was gone, they were out of there.

One thing I did not really like was that the person who brought the llamas was recording (or taking pictures of us) with his phone without our permission. I asked him to take a video/photo of us and handed him my phone. He turned it on and held it in one hand, while simultaneously pointing his phone at us. I know they use social media a lot, but I’d typically expect them to ask if we don’t mind.

Overall, we really enjoyed our stay here, with a few observations. Evening staff was exceptional. They were quick to light a fire (the stove and the fire pit outside) and brought the extra pillows Sean asked for, etc. The Jacuzzi was nice, but in the evening the hot water ran out when it was only halfway full, so we enjoyed it for less time than we wanted to.

The front desk girl who worked there both days was quite rude. She had an attitude each time we talked to her. First, I started speaking to her in Spanish (we are in Peru; I want to use my Spanish, which I am studying). She cut me off and, with a heavy accent, asked if I knew English. Once I confirmed that, yes, I do, she said, “Then we speak in Eeenglish.” Ok, well, not the most welcome, but as you wish. She also scolded us for the late check-out, which we asked about as soon as we checked in at 11pm and were told we could get it for a fee of 100 soles. We were glad to pay it, but it was never explained to us that we needed to pay it in advance. Typically, that is done at checkout, but this girl argued that we had to have paid it earlier. It was a petty and very unnecessary power trip and we just felt that for the very expensive stay, the customer service was just not there. That being said- we loved the views, the animals and the surroundings, so I would still stay there, just without expectations of a warm and welcome front desk staff.

MACHU PICCHU VERSION 2.00

But let’s back up a day- we woke up with the sunshine at Mountain View Experience and immediately knew that today would be a completely different day. Our driver came after breakfast and took us back to the same train station- since our entrance was for 2pm, we booked a 10.32am Peru Rail train, which arrived perfectly on time.

The last part of the drive is a bit wild- they are fixing the road, so the cars have to pass the train station and go all around town in order to drop off passengers. Make sure to allow time for potential traffic before getting to the train station. Luckily, we made it in time, and the 1.5 hr train journey was like day and night from the one before. The views were spectacular; for the best seats, sit on the left side of the train (facing the direction of travel) when traveling from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes.

We arrived and went straight to the bus line, which was not that long today- we were the first bus up for our time slot and entered Machu Picchu exactly at 2pm.

Just look at the difference! I could cry out of happiness. Thank you, whoever gave me the idea to buy the tickets for two days. Or thank you to myself if I had this genius idea :). We did not have a guide this time, so we were free to enjoy it and take hundreds of photos, which we totally did.

We also discovered the main viewpoint platform, which our guide completely skipped yesterday. It would not have mattered, since there was no view to be seen, but when you see THAT Machu Picchu photo, it is usually taken from this spot.

We spent about two hours enjoying the same Circuit 2A, and when we had enough, headed for the bus, which had NOT a single person in line today! When I say it was like a day-and-night experience, it really was.

There was enough time to have dinner at Mapacho, the restaurant with a river view, and we boarded the train, which was not only on time but also featured music and dancing!

Forever grateful for this second chance to see Machu Picchu – one of the New 7 Wonders of the World.

Salt Mines of Maras (Salineras de Maras)

After the most magical second visit to Machu Picchu, we returned to Mountain View Experience for the night, fed the llamas the next morning, and at noon our driver came to collect us for the ride to Cusco. Since the ride wasn’t that long, we wanted to see more of the Sacred Valley, so it ended up being a full-day adventure. People often pay for day trips to the Maras Salt Mines and Moray Terraces from Cusco, but combining the transfer day with the tour made much more sense.

It was only a 10-minute drive from Mountain View Experience, so we made it quickly to our first stop.

Salineras de Maras is one of the largest salt extraction centers of pre-Hispanic times. There are around 4,500 salt wells along the mountainside that fill with salty water from the spring. After three days, the water evaporates, and the process is repeated for a month, during which salt is finally extracted in layers and used for different purposes.

There is a little chapel and several vendors selling Maras salt AND chocolate with (and without) Maras salt. We bought a lot of chocolate, mainly as gifts, but every kind that we tried was delicious.

Moray Circular Terraces

30 min drive from the Salt Mines of Maras, you will find a beautiful ancient Inca Archeological site – Moray Circular Terraces.

It is believed that these terraces were used for agriculture, and the varying depths created microclimates with temperature differences of up to 15°C (27°F) between the top and bottom.

It was time for lunch, so we asked if our driver knew a good place, and he brought us to Inkasal Restaurant with delicious food and a great view.

Chinchero Archaeological Site

Our last stop before arriving in Cusco was at Chinchero. We walked around the town, visited an archaeological site, and went to the church, where no photos were allowed.

I did buy a perfect poncho/sweater for the upcoming Rainbow Mountain tour here. If you want any discounts, make sure to have cash. For any credit card transaction, the vendor will tell you they get charged a fee, so there goes your bargain.

We did spend some time in the evening Cusco traffic, but overall, this was a great day exploring the Sacred Valley without having to pay for a separate excursion to visit these sites.

CUSCO

Since we knew that one day we would spend away from Cusco, hiking Rainbow Mountain (Vinicunca), we decided that this city deserves a four-night stay. We split it between two hotels (located a 10-minute walk apart).

ACCOMMODATIONS

Antigua Casona San Blas

For our first hotel, we chose the San Blas neighborhood and booked a boutique hotel in a restored 18th-century colonial mansion. It is absolutely gorgeous- the hallways, the common spaces, and the restaurant serving excellent food.

This hotel also has a spa, which we booked on the afternoon of our check-out. You get to enjoy the private room with a jacuzzi (and a fruit plate) for one hour, followed by an hour of couples massage. It was divine!

Casa Cartagena Boutique Hotel and Spa

This 5-star boutique hotel has only 15 suites and is located in another historical building. In fact, their restaurant, “La Bodega de la Chola”, was frequented by the Chilean poet Pablo Neruda and the Argentine Marxist revolutionary Che Guevara.

We booked a regular room, but upon arrival, we were upgraded to the Presidential Suite! It was massive. The screened-in patio, guest room with two beds, and a master bedroom with a giant jacuzzi behind the bed.

The place was by far bigger than our apartment in Boston, and we immediately locked the spare room because it felt like we had too much space. Well, mainly we didn’t want to spread our things across two rooms and later forget something.

The staff was super friendly, and they also had a spa with a steam room and a pool, which we enjoyed one evening.

Both hotels were super nice, so you can’t go wrong staying at either!

CUSCO IN TWO DAYS

On the first evening, we wanted to get some steps, so we walked over to Plaza de Armas, where a soccer game was being broadcast on the large screen. It was quite funny because no matter where Sean stood, he towered over everyone, so eventually we had to move to the side of the plaza to avoid obstructing everyone’s view.

For our first dinner, we chose KUSYKAY Peruvian Craft Food, where we got lucky to be seated on the balcony overlooking the street. The place is massive, but very busy and rightfully so- the food was delicious!

The following morning was an early one – we went to Vinicunca (Rainbow Mountain). It was a full-day trip, and when we got back, we decided to eat at our hotel restaurant- we were too tired to look for anything else.

Vinicunca (Rainbow Mountain)

Initially, we planned to do this day trip on a Saturday- we wanted a break from driving and thought we’d enjoy Cusco first. However, when we checked the weather, Friday looked perfect and Saturday there was a big chance of rain. And if it rained at 17,000 feet, that means it would turn to snow. After that one rainy day in Machu Picchu, we did not want to take a risk. Besides, Rainbow Mountain would only look like a rainbow if it was not covered by snow. So we asked our driver to switch the days, and he was more than happy to do so- he now had a free Saturday to spend with his family.

The drive from Cusco was gorgeous, and 3.5 hours didn’t seem that long. It is still a long and tiring day though- we were picked up at 6.30am and reached the base around 10am, but with a bathroom stop and views all around it was not a hard drive at all.

The car can only go so far. Then there is an option to hike (it’s close to 17,000 feet in altitude, so that is highly not recommended), get a horse to bring you up, or, in our case, a motorcycle. Sean was very hesitant at first (it was his first ride), but I am glad we chose this option. A horse would’ve taken an hour, while the bike made it a 10-min drive. We didn’t need to put ourselves or the horses through the torture and had more time to spend up top, including a hike to the Red Valley.

This is absolutely the highest altitude we have ever been to (and most likely won’t be in anything higher again), so the time was limited- we didn’t want to get sick (I only had a headache and Sean used his inhaler a lot).

We got extremely lucky with the weather- just a few days ago it snowed, so anyone who came during that time (if the tours were even happening) saw only a blanket of white snow. For us, it was pretty warm, and we could see the famous colors. Of course, there were a lot of people, but you just need to walk up a bit, and you can easily take photos without the crowds. When we returned from the Red Valley hike, the crowds dispersed, and we could take all the photos without the lines. I am very glad that we had a private driver/tour, which allowed us the flexibility to change days and meant the time we wanted to spend was all ours.

Cusco continued

The second morning in Cusco was for sightseeing in the city. Besides a couple of further sights, Cusco is very walkable. But it also has steep, cobblestone streets, so only comfortable shoes are required here. Do not even consider packing heels, ladies. Sean needed an inhaler often while walking up these streets, and we were already adjusted to the altitude. That’s why I would never start with Cusco, but acclimatize in the Sacred Valley, so that you can actually enjoy this vibrant city.

There are many cute stores and boutiques in Cusco (and we didn’t even make it to the San Pedro Market), so we did a little bit of shopping and passed by the 12 Angled Stone. Part of the wall of the palace of the Archbishop of Cusco, it was once part of the Inca palace’s stone wall and is an archaeological artifact. It was quite funny, though, to see everyone lining up to take a picture near one stone built into the wall. All stones look similar, so if not for the line, we would not have known which one is with 12 angles.

Next ‘famous’ sight was Calle de Siete Borreguitos (Seven Little Lambs Street). I think the only reason it became so popular is that it has been widely shared on social media.

There were local women with baby lambs and alpacas that you could take photos with (after giving them some money), and a line of people waiting to take a photo at this corner. We did not wait in line; I just snapped a photo in between the posers.

A short walk from here, there was another ‘must-visit’ spot in Cusco according to online sources. Sapantiana Aqueduct is a historic, multi-level stone water structure built in the 17th-18th centuries, so there is a valid reason it is listed as a destination.

What I could not understand was why everyone was lining up for a photo below, right in front of the stairs. We walked up and took nice (if not nicer) pictures of the same structure without any lines.

For the sweeping views of the city, we walked (huffing and puffing) to the Mirador de San Cristobal (San Cristobal Viewpoint).

For even better views, head to the church tower. You will need to buy a ticket, and for the most savings, make sure to get combo access to the Cusco Cathedral as well.

The views from the tower are worth the price, and there were only a few people there, unlike the busy viewpoint plaza.

Plaza Trecentenario honestly looks better in photos than in real life. The fountain was not working, which probably would change the view a lot if it were on.

This was the day we had to check out of our first hotel, but we still had massages/spa appointments booked, so after a few more stops, we headed back. I did buy a gold ring with colorful gems at Joyería El Dorado, which is rated 5 stars. As much as I love the ring, the purchasing process was not a 5-star experience, and I would never recommend dealing with them. There was one price in the morning and a slightly different one in the afternoon. When the price was finally agreed to in USD, they claimed their machine could not input that amount, and their conversion rate into Soles was not at all the rate at that time. The issue was that I fell in love with the ring and could not let it go. If not for that, I would have never given them my money.

For dinner, we tried Organika and absolutely loved the food, staff, and atmosphere. We even chatted with a lovely couple living in Uruguay and played with their adorable baby- it was one of those nights where you meet the people, and the conversation simply flows.

On our last day in Cusco, we visited a few more places we hadn’t seen earlier, and it would’ve been a shame to leave without visiting. After an excellent breakfast at the hotel and after Sean helped to push a car up the steep hill, we made it to Sacsayhuaman.

This citadel is a monumental architectural masterpiece of the Inca Empire, where massive limestone boulders were fitted together perfectly without mortar.

The views of Cusco from there are also quite impressive.

Cristo Blanco (Statue of Christ) is a short walk away and offers similar sweeping views below.

From here, we walked to the Q’enqo Archaeological Complex, quickly toured it, and then took an Uber back to the city. I feel like we have seen enough archaeological sites and stones at this point in our trip.

There was a celebration and parade in the Plaza de Armas for a reason we don’t know, but it was fun to watch. We did a bit more shopping, tried the corner tamale vendor our driver recommended, and had a proper lunch at Ukllay restaurant with a view of the plaza.

Everyone who came here opted to wait for a window table (even though the rest of the space was fully available). We did the same, and it was worth the wait.

Both the food and the view were amazing, and they also have a rooftop lounge for an even better view of the plaza! Unfortunately, they were not serving food there since it was a bit too cold and windy.

For dessert and a coffee, we walked over to Catfetin, a cute cat cafe where the kitties are up for adoption. Some were quite friendly, and we got to pet and play with them.

We made it to Coricancha just in time before it closed. The most important Inka Temple of the Sun was our last sightseeing destination in Cusco and Peru in general.

When the Spanish arrived in Cusco, they destroyed most of the temple and built a Santo Domingo church on its foundations. The temple’s walls were once covered in gold, and it was built to survive natural disasters.

Before enjoying the hotel spa, we had dinner at Organika’s sister restaurant, Yaku. It was good, but if I had to choose, Organika would be my first choice.

And that concludes our Cusco (and Peru) adventure!

CONCLUSION

What a country, what a trip! Peru has been an incredible adventure through history, with an amazing culinary experience. As beautiful and delicious as it has been, it has also been physically demanding and exhausting, with little sleep and the effects of high altitude. I am extremely grateful we were able to visit and do all the adventures while we are still young(ish) and healthy, because if it is hard in your 40s, I can only imagine how much harder it would be in our 60s or later. We saw older travelers, which is kudos to them, but we realized that some trips are definitely better done while you are in good physical shape, especially when there is no way to prepare or know how your body will react to high altitude. Feeling proud and accomplished, we are ready to continue our adventure to the next country, Bolivia!