OSLO/FLAM/GUDVANGEN/BERGEN

OVERVIEW

• When: 1 July – 5 July, 2026
• Where (accommodations): Oslo: Grand Hotel Oslo; Gudvangen: Gudvangen Fjordtel; Bergen: Home Hotel Havnekontoret
• Transportation: Icelandair flight from Boston (BOS) to Oslo (OSL) via Keflavik (KEF); VY F4 Train Oslo to Myrdal, R45 Flam Railway to Flam; Fjord cruise from Flam to Gudvangen booked via Norway’s Best; VY Bus Gudvangen to Voss, VY Train Voss to Bergen; Norwegian air Bergen (BGO) to Oslo (OSL)
• Sights/attractions: Oslo: National Theater, Freia chocolate sign and store, Oslo Opera House, Deichman Bjorvika, (library), Karl Johan street, Damstredet and Telthusbakken streets, Grünerløkka and Volcan neighborhoods, F5 Concept store, Vigeland Sculpture Park, Akersus Fortress, Aker Brygge, Nobel Peace Center, MUNCH Museum Royal Palace; Flam: Fjordsauna Flam; Bergen: Bryggen Hanseatic Wharf and wooden alleys, Fish Market (Fisketorget), Floibanen Funicular & Mt. Floye, Hotel Charmante, Bergen Bors Hotel, Mathallen, view from the tower at Home Hotel Havnekontoret
• Food/drinks: Oslo: Mathallen, Statholderens Food & Wine, Apent Bakeri Paleet, Nio Cafe, W.B Samson, Grand Cafe, Liminal, Paradis ice cream; Gudvangen: Kongshallen restaurant; Bergen: Floirestauranten, Fjak chocolate shop & café, Allmuen Bistro

Norway marks country #85 for me, and we could not be more excited to explore it! As it became a habit, we are pulling yet another long-weekend transatlantic trip, leaving Boston Tuesday evening, a quick layover in Iceland, and arriving in Oslo Wednesday afternoon. There is an airport express train that gets you into the city center in just about 30 minutes- super convenient and a lot cheaper than an Uber or Bolt ride share. We spent two nights in Oslo, which gave us 1.5 days to explore the capital with its distinct districts and neighborhoods. Using Norway’s amazing public transportation, we then traveled by train and railway to Flam, followed by the Fjord cruise to Gudvangen, where we spent the night in a Viking village. Finally, we took a bus to Voss and then a train to Bergen, where we spent one more night before flying back to Oslo and returning to the USA on Sunday. It sounds a bit crazy and fast-paced, but it worked, and we were not exhausted either. The amazing part was not so much the cities and destinations as the nature in between. This route (Oslo to Bergen) is often called “Norway in a Nutshell” and is sold as a package tour via different websites. I nearly bought it myself, but I am glad I did a bit more research. There are a few ways to do the same ‘tour’- you could swap the order of the Flam Railway and the fjord cruise, for example. Or travel from Bergen to Oslo and see the same sights. For us it lined up better to go from Oslo and fly back from Bergen, because then we caught our international flight home right after and didn’t have to leave the airport- maximize the time, that’s the goal!

Important note: The “Norway in a Nutshell” tour sold online is a LOT more expensive than booking each ticket yourself. And buying it via a third party does not give you any advantage; on the contrary. You will still be traveling with the same trains, railways, and buses. But it will most likely be more tourists during the same time if they bought the same bundle. Purchasing tickets yourself gives you more freedom to travel on a different schedule, pick your train/bus seats on the better side for the views, and you can break up the journey with an awesome sauna and an overnight in a charming village. I can’t stress it enough- do not buy this tour, but make your own arrangements instead (or copy our step-by-step journey!).

OSLO

The capital city of Norway is a bit controversial. Some people love it, some hate it. I’ve even read comments like “What is there to do in Oslo? LEAVE”. After exploring it for 1.5 days, we decided that Oslo grew on us. I would not say we ‘fell in love’ or that we would ever need to return to Oslo, but we certainly did not hate it and had plenty to do while we were there. It is similar to other Scandinavian capitals. I liked it a lot more than Helsinki, but a bit less than Copenhagen, for example. What we liked the most was the variety of different neighborhoods – they had completely different feels, aesthetics, and vibes, so I am actually glad we had enough time to explore. Food was also exceptional. We ate at two multi-course restaurants and had an incredible experience. Have I sold you on Oslo yet 🙂 ?

Grand Hotel Oslo

There are many hotels to choose from. Grand Hotel Oslo is located in the heart of the city, on Karl Johans Gate (‘gate’ means ‘street’ in Norwegian, not the actual gate). It is close to the train station and within walking distance of the main city attractions. Opened in 1874, this hotel is also known for hosting the annual Nobel Peace Prize Banquet.

It is very impressive from the outside and has a gorgeous lobby. I would not say the same about the rooms, though. The carpets had stains, the bed was small, and, unfortunately, the spa was closed due to pool maintenance issues. To use the spa (such as the sauna, jacuzzi, and the pool, which we never got to see), there is a fee, regardless of whether you are a hotel guest. Oddly enough, nobody told us that when we checked in. When we went up to see the spa on the top floor, there was a taped note saying we had to get the key from reception (the same place where we had just discussed spa hours). Returning to the reception for the key, we were then informed that there is a fee to use the spa. It was late, so we decided to enjoy it the following day, especially with the rain forecast. Sadly, the next day we were informed that the spa was closed and that none of the facilities could be used while they were fixing the pool.

Given that the rooms are pricey and we couldn’t use one of the main amenities, you’d think there would be some sort of compensation. Maybe a free breakfast or lunch at their cafe- there was none of that. The staff simply stated that nothing could be done about the spa, and that was the end of it. There is a rooftop terrace with a great view of the city- make sure to check that out if you are staying at this hotel. If we were back in Oslo, we would stay at a more modern hotel, most likely in the Aker Brygge area.

Oslo Sights and Bites

The city is very walkable and has an extensive tram system. Uber and Bolt are also available (and don’t even consider a taxi). For a 10-min ride, the taxi asked for 100 Euros, while Bolt was only 28 (we were short on time, or else we would’ve used a super-cheap tram).

We got off the Airport Express train at the Nationaltheatret station and walked over to the hotel. After dropping off the bags, we set off to explore. Of course, you can’t miss the giant Freia chocolate sign and make sure to stock up on delicious Norwegian chocolate at the Freia Chocolate Shop (Freiabutikken) right near the hotel.

They are mostly famous for their milk chocolate, but we grabbed some dark chocolate with pecans and sea salt as well as other kinds, and it is amazing!

While we had sunny weather (and we knew it would rain the next day), we headed to the Oslo Opera House. Not for the opera, of course, but to see the unique building and to walk up to the rooftop for the great views!

Unique design and an interesting way to walk up- the view from the top of the Opera House is definitely beautiful. Right nearby is a famous MUNCH museum, which we left for a rainy day, and the gorgeous Deichman Bjorvika (library), which we decided to visit right after the Opera House.

I love beautiful libraries, and this one was definitely worth a visit. We even got to listen to a kids’ rock band playing there, which we found very interesting- the sound was traveling all the way to the top floor, so if someone decided to study there, they came on the wrong day.

Hunger started to hit hard (Icelandair does not feed you on the international flights if you are in the Economy), so we decided to check out one of several Food Halls in Oslo- Mathallen. Located in the Vulkan area, this indoor market had plenty of choices for a quick grab-and-go lunch, and we continued exploring different neighborhoods.

We also discovered Paradis gelato shop- excellent flavors, we had it a couple of times, because there was one close to the hotel as well.

Grunerlokka is considered a ‘hipster’ neighborhood, and we enjoyed the cute cafes and vintage shops there.  Fiffis Gaver is one of the stores there, but there are many cute ones nearby.

For more colorful houses and an old Oslo feel, we ventured to Damstredet and Telthusbakken streets. The little houses actually reminded me of Lithuania.

My friend, seeing these pictures, said, “This is like in my neighborhood in Vilnius.” Why would I need to go to Norway to see that? 🙂 .

We found this area very charming and quiet- away from the busy center and very photogenic.

Before our 10-course dinner (which started at 9pm!), we took Bolt to the Vigeland Sculpture Park. It is the world’s largest sculpture park created by one artist, representing the cycle of life. Created between 1924 and 1943, this is a very impressive park and a beautiful place to visit.

We walked enough; this dinner is well deserved! Considering that we arrived on the overnight flights, we are close to hitting the wall, but the long summer days in Norway definitely helped to fight the exhaustion. We did ask the server to speed up the dinner and not make it 3.5 hours long- we finished in two and were VERY impressed. Statholderens Food & Wine wowed us with every dish and impeccable service.

The beautiful setting in the arched-ceiling cellar created a lovely atmosphere as well.

You would think by now we would be falling face down in a pillow? Nope! We decided to walk off the food and headed towards the Akersus Fortress, enjoying the waterfront of Aker Brygge and passing the Nobel Peace Center.

I think Aker Brygge was one of my favorite areas of Oslo. I really liked the architecture and the marina views.

27 000 steps later, we finished our first day in Oslo!

The following morning, we woke to cloudy skies and set off to find breakfast. We tried a very cute Spor av Nord cafe, but they didn’t have warm food- it was mostly premade sandwiches. They were out of GF pancakes too, so we left. I don’t know if it was us, the area (the center of town), or if Oslo just isn’t big on breakfast. We didn’t want sweets to start the day, and we even returned to the hotel hoping for eggs, but breakfast was already over. Luckily, the staff pointed us to the Apent Bakeri Paleet, and we had a satisfying meal. We doubled up on coffee at Nio Cafe, followed by a delicious (and gluten-filled) cinnamon bun from W.B. Samson, and now we are ready for the MUNCH museum, right on time for the rain.

I will admit- I knew nothing about this museum, apart from the fact that it’s one of the main attractions in Oslo. Well, it REALLY is worth it. 13 floors (not all of them have expositions), a rooftop restaurant and bar with a nice view, and, of course, lots and lots of art.

Now about the art. There were famous pieces of Munch – the most exciting being The Scream. But also the temporary exposition of Portuguese artist Paula Rego. And that was dark. And disturbing. And definitely not our favorite.

Much’s The Scream, on the other hand, was a highlight. We didn’t even know the famous art was there (I know, I know). We walked in, saw the painting in a dark room, and started reading the description. Come to find out, that the same room displays three different versions- a print, a pencil sketch, and a painting – rotating every 30 min, with the print being shown most often. That way, the fragile art gets ‘rest’ and is not constantly exposed to light. Nobody told us about it, we discovered it by accident. Even though we specifically asked at the ticket counter what is ‘not to miss’ in the museum. My best advice is: as soon as you arrive, go to the 4th floor and see what version is displayed. Then enjoy the museum for 30 min and return to see the next one. Luckily, there are plenty of floors to explore, and you can easily spend more than 1.5 hours in this museum.

Rain or shine, this museum is definitely worth it, but be prepared for the art that is not very cheerful to say the least.

For lunch, we stopped at The Grand Cafe at our hotel and had a good meal. We hoped to enjoy the spa afterward, but soon found out about the issues, so we walked by the Royal Palace and just relaxed at the hotel until dinner.

Liminal was another multi-course dinner at a small, 15-person restaurant in a quiet neighborhood. Less extravagant than the previous night, but also extremely delicious!

Oslo, you have been fun! I think 2 days is more than enough in Oslo. We are ready to see some of Norway’s famous nature. In the morning, we are starting our own “Norway in a Nutshell” adventure.

Train, Flam Railway, and the Fjord Cruise

It’s the journey and not the destination- that is a perfect name for this travel day between Oslo and the village of Gudvangen. This was our self- organized “Norway in a Nutshell” tour, which we started by taking F4 train (destination Bergen) from Oslo to Myrdal. We left at 8.20am, which gave us enough time to have breakfast at the hotel and walk to the Central Station.

Since we booked the train tickets ourselves a few months before the trip (summer time is a busy season and to guarantee yourself a spot, book early), we selected our preferred seats. I always want to sit facing the direction of travel, but the views are just as important. And trust me, on this train you DO want to see the views.

This 4.5-hour train ride was possibly one of the prettiest train rides we have ever taken. But also, that is because we sat on the LEFT side facing the direction of travel leaving Oslo. Those who sat on the right side often saw a wall. The landscapes changed from green fields and lakes to rocky, treeless valleys with snow-capped mountains in the distance.

While we were hot getting on a train in Oslo, we bundled up when we got off the train in Myrdal. The wait was not long- 20 minutes later, the Flam Railway train arrived, and we got on it for another spectacular journey- this time only about an hour long. Here, the seats were not assigned; it was first come, first served, and we knew we should sit on the LEFT again, but got confused about the direction the train was going. It pulled up from the right, and we thought it would continue going in the same direction. However, after everyone got on, it started moving in the same direction it had come from! Luckily, the drive is not long, and you can move around the wagon, so I just stood and moved in each direction where I saw a nice view.

We stopped for about 10 minutes at the Kjosfossen waterfall, where everyone got off to take some pictures. Then out of nowhere, dancers appeared in between the rocks and the music started- it was a mini performance, which was totally unexpected, quite random, but pretty cool. The views changed back to lush green and the waterfalls flowing on either side- it felt like we were riding through a movie scene, and next thing you know, we arrived in Flam.

That is where we were especially grateful that we didn’t book the traditional “Norway in a Nutshell” package. The majority of the tourists went straight from the Flam railway to the Fjord cruise (with a short break in Flam). We also booked the Fjord cruise but selected the last departure time slot at 5.30 pm. That gave us 3 full hours in Flam, and that is plenty of time to enjoy the floating sauna and grab some lunch.

Fjordsauna Flam is a short walk from the train, and it was not busy. I booked a 2.30 pm shared reservation, and there were only two other people with us.

The sauna was very hot (perfect for me); there was even a floor hatch to enter the cold fjord water from inside the sauna, or you could slowly ease into it using the steps. For the daredevils, there was an option to jump into the freezing water from the rooftop of the floating sauna, too! Water temperature was around 8 °C (48°F), but after a hot sauna session, it felt great to cool off! I enjoyed it more than Sean did, but I love a sauna followed by cold water in general.

We didn’t use the entire 1.5 hours of allocated time, but it was perfect to break up the travel, and it felt like we were really in Scandinavia now! Before boarding the Fjord cruise, we grabbed a delicious lunch from one of the many vendors and were ready to continue our journey to Gudvangen!

Saying we got lucky is an understatement. The forecast called for rain, and we got blue skies! I am sure this 2-hour fjord cruise is beautiful all the time, but with these conditions, it was simply spectacular!

We spent most of the cruise outside admiring the views, but it was windy – I am not going to lie. I cannot imagine being outside in the rain, but the ship had large windows, so either way it would be worth it.

The fjord cruise was the cherry on top for this amazing day of traveling through Norway. 100% an activity not to miss! We reached Gudvangen village before 8pm, and even though it was a full day of traveling, we felt less tired than spending a day in the city. A lot of travelers choose to continue on and head to Bergen, but we felt that would be a bit much, so we booked one night in Gudvangen Fjordtell– a Viking room with a skylight, in a hotel surrounded by waterfalls.

The area is beyond beautiful, and there are two restaurants on site – we ate at Kongshallen, but the price was ‘spectacular’ too. The room with basic amenities (not even shampoo, conditioner, or body lotion) was around $600 USD per night. Ouch. There are Airbnbs in the area, but many require a minimum 2-3 night stay, so there was not much of an option.

We have no regrets staying the night in Gudvangen. It allowed us to really immerse ourselves in nature and to break up the busy travel. We enjoyed the long daylight hours walking around in the evening, had breakfast (at least it was included in the price!), and continued to our final destination, Bergen, the following morning.

Definitely one of the most beautiful bus stops we’ve ever waited at.

BERGEN

To reach the rainiest town in Europe (apparently it rains 240 days per year here), we took a one-hour bus from Gudvangen to Voss, followed by an hour train from Voss to Bergen. Neither were full, so even though we purchased tickets and picked seats in advance, we moved around to enjoy the views from both sides.

It is incredible that this entire journey (with the exception of the Fjord cruise) was done via public transportation!

Home Hotel Havnekontoret

In Bergen, we chose to stay at the Home Hotel Havnekontoret, located in a grand 1920s building with access to an observation tower with sweeping views of the city. We wanted a high-floor room and agreed to wait for the 6th floor, so we dropped the suitcases and went to explore the city. Make sure you know what you are booking, though. When we finally saw the room, we realized that even though it has a balcony and a bathtub, it is facing the inner yard that essentially looks like a prison.

We called down and asked if they have a room with a view- that’s what you would think a 6th floor balcony room would give you. After promising to become a ‘strawberry member ‘, we were given a city view room on the same floor. The staff did not care to inform us that this room would not have a balcony or a bathtub, but at least we got the windows with a view of Bergen.

This hotel is known for its all-inclusive dining perks: breakfast, afternoon pancakes, and a light evening meal. We only enjoyed the breakfast, because we spent the day exploring and had dinner reservations at a restaurant that we wanted to try. There is no spa, but I enjoyed their sauna, and the view from the tower is definitely unmatched!

Bergen In a Day

We arrived in Bergen around 1pm, and again there was rain in the forecast, but luckily it was holding off. We had to take advantage of that! First order of business – Bryggen Hanseatic Wharf and wooden alleys, then the Floibanen Funicular & Mt. Floye.

There were a lot of people at the Funicular viewpoint, but the area is large, and there is plenty of space to take good photos.

We were really hungry by this time and were debating whether to go back to town and look for a restaurant, when we noticed that there was a restaurant right there! Fløirestauranten is beautiful, and luckily they took us in without a reservation. We had an excellent lunch which allowed us to continue sightseeing until the evening.

Many restaurants close between 3 and 5pm, so we were glad we stayed here instead of trying to find a place to eat in town. Energy renewed, still no rain—let’s wander around colorful Bergen!

Even with the cloudy skies, the colorful houses made Bergen extremely photogenic. There are the main spots for photos, such as near the fish market Fisketorget, but wandering around the winding streets is the best way to immerse yourself in Bergen’s beauty.

There are quite a few adorable boutiques, and for sure, do not miss the Fjak chocolate shop & café. They make very creative hot chocolate drinks (and sell chocolate bars). The wait might be long, but if you are not in a rush, it is worth it.

We briefly walked into Hotel Charmante and Bergen Bors Hotel– both have stunning interiors/restaurant. Hotel Charmante also has a speakeasy bar, which opens later in the day and we were simply too tired to visit.

We had dinner booked at Allmuen Bistro and made it there right after the heavy rain subsided. The food was pretty good, but not as good as the food at the restaurants in Oslo. We also did not opt for a multi-course meal, which may have resulted in a better experience.

I feel the need to stress how good the Creme Lakris ice cream is. It is black licorice (which Sean hates), but the flavor of this ice cream is forever etched into my mind. Since the first try, I had it three days in a row in Norway, and that says a lot!

CONCLUSION

Fourth of July weekend in Norway was a huge success. We were expecting pretty bad weather and daily rain, but the weather gods were on our side. When it rained in Oslo, we enjoyed the museum, and while it downpoured in Bergen, I was in a sauna. Most importantly, we got to enjoy the fjords with the clear blue skies, and I feel like that was a true gift. The country is beautiful regardless of weather, which reminded us of a statement someone gave in Iceland: it’s not bad weather, it’s Iceland. The same could be said about Norway, but packing should also be done accordingly. Even in summer, pack layers, waterproof shoes, and a raincoat, and don’t let the forecast deter you from visiting. We only saw a small part of Norway, and it’s a country we would like to return to one day. If not for nature, I’d go back for that ice cream :)!