ANTIGUA/TIKAL/LAKE ATITLÁN/GUATEMALA CITY

OVERVIEW

• When: 22 March – 30 March, 2025
• Where (accommodations): Antigua: Hotel Casa Santo Domingo; Flores(Tikal): Las Lagunas Boutique Hotel; Santa Catarina Palopo (Lake Atitlán): Tzampoc Resort; Guatemala City: Hyatt Centric
• Transportation: American Airlines flight from Miami (MIA) to Guatemala City (GUA); Tag Airlines from Guatemala City (GUA) to Flores (FRS); Uber within Guatemala City and Antigua; Tikal Express (private driver and guide) from Flores to Tikal WhatsApp +502 4518 7082; Private driver Bayron from Guatemala City to Lake Atitlán WhatsApp +502 4767 7372; Private boat around Atitlán- Captain Manuel Lopez WhatsApp +502 5096 9246
• Sights/attractions: Antigua: Iglesia San Francisco El Grande, Ruinas de La Antigua Catedral Metropolitana de Santiago de Los Caballeros de Guatemala, San José Cathedral Antigua, Central Park, Choco Museo, Iglesia de la Merced, Arco de Santa Catalina, Hobbitenango, Altamira, Nim Pot, Santiago de los Caballeros monument, Cerro de La Cruz, Convento De Santa Teresa de Jesus, Palacio de Los Capitanes, Iglesia y convento de las Capuchinas; Tikal: Tikal National Park; Lake Atitlán: Villages: San Marcos La Laguna, San Juan La Laguna, San Pedro La Laguna, Santiago, Santa Catarina Palopo; Santa Catarina Palopó Church, Umbrella Street (San Juan La Laguna), Textiles Coop, Abeja Obrera (Honey shop), San Pedro La Laguna church, Hand Viewpoint San Pedro, Calle Santander (Panajachel); Guatemala City: Ciudad Cayalá, Paseo Cayala, Plaza de la Constitucion, Catedral Metropolitana, Mercado Central, Oakland Place Guatemala (mall)
• Food/drinks: Antigua: Taqueria Benito Carlos del Toro, ChocoMuseo, Helados Exoticos, Sobremesa Antigua, Cafe Boheme; Flores: Sky Bar; Lake Atitán: Cafe Tuk, Kinnik, The Hidden Garden Atitlán, Humaya Restaurante, Guajimbo’s Restaurant; Guatemala City: Casa Escobar, Helados Adela, Celieti

Another winter in Miami has come to an end. That means another week-long vacation somewhere warm before we return back to Boston! The Central American country Guatemala has been on my mind for quite some time. I’ve heard many great things from the people that have been there, and I wanted to see it with my own eyes.

However, if you happen to google “Guatemala safety”- a lot of frightening posts come up. Travel.state.gov straight up says “Level 3: Reconsider travel”. Another place claims that “Guatemala has one of the highest violent crime rates in Latin America” and you get the picture. I am glad that these type of warnings never deterred us from traveling because we would’ve missed a charming, warm, and gorgeous country. What we experienced was smiling, happy people, incredible food, ancient history, and magnificent nature – never once felt unsafe. I am sure things happen (just like in any country) and we took precautions accordingly- did not wear flashy jewelry, did not walk around dark streets in the Guatemala City, but also never felt like we have to look over the shoulder either. It was a wonderful eight night stay which we split between Antigua (2 nights), Flores (Tikal) (2 nights), Lake Atitlán (3 nigths) and Guatemala City (1 night).

Visa is not needed for the stay up to 90 days in Guatemala for American or Lithuanian (EU) passport holders, but you have to fill out a declaration form. It is FREE. There are some sites that pop up at the top of the search that charge over $100 USD (and I almost fell for one). The official site is here. You will get a QR code at the end that will need to be presented after clearing customs in Guatemala. It was very fast and easy, just like the flight – direct and less than three hours from Miami.

ANTIGUA

Not to be confused with Antigua and Barbuda which is an island country in the Caribbean. Antigua, Guatemala is a fairly small city in the central highlands of the country, surrounded by the views of volcanos. Recognized as one of the best preserved Colonial cities in the world, Antigua is designated as UNESCO Heritage Site since 1979. It is one of the most popular places in Guatemala to visit, so this is probably where you will encounter most tourists. It is only around 25 miles (40 km) away from Guatemala City, but the traffic to get there can be brutal. We landed at 11am on a Saturday and it took us over 2 hours by Uber to reach our hotel in Antigua. We didn’t know this, but most of the offices work on Saturdays until noon or so. Therefore, traffic during mid-day can be bumper to bumper leaving Guatemala city.

Uber is a great way to get around both in Guatemala City and Antigua. I would 100% not recommend renting a car- drivers are fast, roads winding, and sometimes steep. We were very glad we never had to drive here. For longer trips, such as going to Lake Atitlán we booked a private driver because we were not sure if Uber would be available and it was a great choice.

ACCOMMODATION

Antigua has so many beautiful places to stay that it was hard to decide where to spend the two nights that we were there. Ultimately, we chose Hotel Casa Santo Domingo because it had amazing reviews, especially at their spa and restaurant.

Hotel Casa Santo Domingo

5 star hotel built on the ruins of the 16th century monastery, which was partially destroyed in the 1773 earthquake is a sight to behold.

Beautiful gardens, fountains, heated general pool, and as hoped for, a VERY nice spa. We got massages and spent some time relaxing in the quiet area – going between a hot indoor pool to the cooler one outside.

However, when it comes to the rooms…Well, I can only speak to OUR room in particular. We paid extra to have a room with the jacuzzi, so we were pretty excited about that. Then we arrive and get the 215.

We had a king size bed, there was a jacuzzi in the outdoor area. But the door with the metal bars? The creepy statues and decorations around the room? I did not take a picture of the ‘always watching puppets’ because I didn’t want them on my phone 🙂 . It felt like a former monk’s cell with no actual window. The door opened up to the enclosed jacuzzi area and there was enough light coming in from the covered top, but it still kind of felt like a basement (despite it being on the second floor). There are many other rooms in this hotel that don’t look like this, so don’t get put off by it. If I were to stay here again, I’d make sure to pick a room with a view (instead of jacuzzi), or, if not staying here, I’d for sure come to this hotel for the spa treatment at least.

Last but not least-make sure to visit the museums on premises! We did that on the last morning before departure (and I am glad it was not on the first day).

There is a silver museum, archeological museum, a chapel (where they hold the weddings) and…a crypt with bones under the glass. Just what one needs for a peaceful night’s rest.

Just whatever you do, do not miss their chocolate shop. They have a large selection of flavors and it’s super good. It was a perfect snack before going down to the crypt.

All in all, we liked the hotel, but not our actual room (me at least). Their restaurant is excellent- we had dinner here on both of the two evenings in Antigua.

They accommodated gluten free diet, including the dessert!

Antigua on Foot

Most of the sights in Antigua can be reached on foot, just make sure to wear comfortable shoes. The streets are mostly made of cobble stones, and the sidewalks are narrow and often crooked. People in Antigua definitely dress up nicely, especially for dinner, but I would be scared to wear heels even for a short walk.

The city is famous for it’s Baroque architecture and so much history, so as soon as we arrived we set off to explore. But first- tacos! Taqueria Benito Carlos del Toro is close to the hotel, has a charming yard, and the food was delicious!

A lot of people in Guatemala (except Guatemala City) wore traditional clothes and the women’s dresses were exquisite! I asked to take their photo because they looked so beautiful.

Now we are for sure ready to see this charming city!

San Francisco El Grande Church and The Tomb of Saint  Pedro de San José de Betancur

We marked several churches to visit in Antigua and without any special plans came to San Francisco El Grande first. We saw there was a line of people waiting to see the tomb of the Saint Pedro de San José de Betancur, so we got into the same line. Only now as I am writing this post and I looked up more info, did I realize that the tomb of this particular saint was last time opened in 1979. That is 46 years ago!

The reason for opening the tomb for public now was that it’s 400 yr celebration of this saint’s birthday. It was opened on March 21st, 22nd and 23rd and we just so happened to arrive in Antigua on March 22nd.

I was wearing a strappy dress, so they asked me to put his cover up for the entrance. No photos or videos were allowed, but we were able to see the remains (bones) of the saint.

The church just finished a wedding ceremony and we visited it right after.

All churches in Guatemala (as well as many windows of the buildings) were decorated in purple for the upcoming Easter holiday.

We also were able to witness several processions that took place in the streets- one in Antigua and one in the Lake Atitlan village. The streets were closed for traffic and many people including little kids were part of it. Initially when we saw children carrying the massive statues we were quite shocked. But then we saw that adults were actually carrying the weight, kids were there just as participants and switched to a new group on every block.

We never knew Guatemala was so religious (Catholic), and never seen processions a month before Easter anywhere else – so it was a beautiful sight to see.

On the way to our next destination we passed by the beautiful church of Santo Hermano Pedro de San Jose Betancúr, but only stoped for a brief look.

Ruins of the Metropolitan Cathedral of Santiago

I am not sure if this will come up correctly in Google Maps, so here is the Spanish version- Ruinas de La Antigua Catedral Metropolitana de Santiago de Los Caballeros de Guatemala. It’s a long name for the ruins, but the place is for sure worth a visit! We came right before it closed and the light was just perfect.

The original cathedral was destroyed by the earthquakes, but the ruins are preserved and can be explored after paying a small fee. There were not many people at 4.30 pm, and we really enjoyed the visit.

San José Cathedral Antigua

Really close to the ruins of the original cathedral, you will find a gorgeous San José Cathedral. Survived (though damaged) by several earthquakes, this church is right near the Central Park of Antigua and should not be missed.

As a side note- I absolutely loved Antigua’s mini ice cream carts. They were so cute- like this school bus or the fire truck- never seen anything like it before 🙂 .

Choco Museo

You can’t walk around Guatemala and not try their chocolate! It is Guatemala’s gold and it is GOOD! We did not have reservations for the Cacao and Chocolate Museum, so we were not able to participate in the demonstration/make our own chocolate part, but their shop and caffe with the rooftop were open, so we got a good taste! We picked out some truffles, ordered a spicy cocoa and enjoyed it on their terrace.

For a full chocolate snob review and transparency- the truffles were MUCH better in the chocolate shop at our Hotel Casa Santo Domingo.

Santa Catalina Arch (Arco de Santa Catalina)

We have one more church to visit today, but first- one of the most photographed landmarks of Antigua- Arco de Santa Catalina. Built in 1694 over the 5th Avenue North this church was allowing the nuns to pass by from the convent to school without entering the street.

And of course, we’re always petting all the cats and dogs…This one was not homeless and was a very happy pup!

Iglesia de La Merced

I think my favorite church in Antigua- intricate facade, huge waterlily shaped fountain, and you can climb on the roof!

Amazing volcano views and a clear evening made this perfect first night in Guatemala.

There was a professional photographer there and he was waiting for the Fuego volcano eruption (we could only see the smoke). We chatted with him and he told us that he took some pictures of us. He was so kind to share them – I wish we did a professional photoshoot, they came out so well!

It was pretty cool to see the candid moments (and of course Sean being the perfect Instagram husband!).

HOBBITENANGO

This eco friendly theme park (if you can call it that) is only 20 min drive from Antigua and initially I was having some doubts if it’s worth visiting. I will skip to the conclusion- YES it is worth it. That is coming from someone who visited the ACTUAL Hobbiton movie set in New Zealand.

14 years between the two photos, though might as well be a lifetime. Same girl, with the same love for travel though!

Sean didn’t make it to the original one, so being able to see the “Hobbit houses” in Guatemala peeked his interest. Since we decided not to climb any volcanoes on this trip, we had some time, so figured- why not?

I did some research and it was clear that we can easily get to Hobbitenago by simply taking an Uber from Antigua. However, a lot of people complained that they had a hard time finding a ride back. So I tried my best to book the shuttle service. There is an office in Antigua, so I messaged them on WhatsApp while still in the USA, and asked to reserve the space for the shuttle. They told me to call another number, where I was informed that the only way to reserve it is to physically arrive to the office. Either the day before, or on the day we want to go. I even asked our hotel concierge to book it, but I got the same reply. Oh well. This was one of those occasions where we were glad we could’t make the arrangements. We got up early on a Sunday, had no issues getting an Uber, and arrived right around 8am before the place opens. Shuttle, in the meantime, would only leave Antigua at 8am (best case scenario). That means you are missing out on the best time to be in the park- when no one else is there.

Uber drops you off on a side of a parking lot, where you’ll find a booth to purchase tickets and wait for a little truck to bring you up the steep hill. Right past the ticket booth there are vendors selling souvenirs and artisan works. I got THE BEST deal on the silver rings with Jade at the very first booth. I was not able to find anything even close in price anywhere else in Guatemala.

The trucks go up and down often, so just wait for the number to be called (we were #2 ) – practice those numbers in Spanish!

As soon as you get in the park ask for directions to ‘The Hand’. That’s what gets most busy since it’s one of the most photographed places here. When we arrived there was nobody there yet and we had to ask the guy sweeping the path to take some photos of us. He did a great job, even took an awesome video!

Getting to Hobbitenango in the early morning also gives you the best chance of a clear view of the volcanos. As the time went on (not even two hours later), the fog and clouds started rolling in, and it was not as perfect of a view any longer.

There is a swing (max weight 200 lbs, so Sean did not qualify, and I didn’t feel like I need to) and plenty of cute photo opportunities.

We took advantage of the perfect weather and the empty park first and took plenty of pictures. And now- breakfast in one of the ‘Hobbit’ houses!

Food was great, portions plentiful, and the view magnificent. I almost liked Hobbitenango more than the Hobbiton in New Zealand 🙂 . A lot more people arrived later in morning, so to really have the best experience arrive at the time of the opening – 8am. They even had music playing all across the area- it really was sort of magical. We spent about 2 hours there and I think that is enough.

Altamira Eco Park

If you are already here, up in the hills, don’t leave before visiting another cute location- Altamira. Take the truck transportation back down from the steep hill (you could walk, but it’s a narrow path and if the truck needs to go by, it might get tricky). From there, it’s a short walk and the signs clearly mark the way.

There are more hands here to take pictures on (this one was actually a bit scary for me to stand) and you can even ride a bicycle on a wire (no thank you).

It is a cute park, but it was getting hot and we wanted to see more of Antigua (plus enjoy our hotel), so we went back to the parking lot and asked around if there are any taxis. Apparently it’s not that hard to get the ride back- we quickly agreed on the price and were dropped off back in Antigua in no time. I don’t think it was an official taxi, but it got us back with no issues. We were very happy we were not constricted by the official shuttle schedule and avoided all the crowds.

More of Antigua charm

As the heat of the day started to kick in, it was a perfect time for some ice cream. Sobremesa Helados Exoticos, just like the name implies, had a LOT of exotic flavors of delicious ice cream. Individually packaged, they are a must try while in Antigua!

We asked for lunch recommendations and the guys working at the ice cream shop told us that they also have a restaurant with a rooftop terrace- Sobremesa Antigua– how perfect!

Food was delicious, espresso martini strong and the view- well, spectacular.

Before we went back to the hotel for the afternoon spa, we did a little souvenir shopping at Nim Pot. Very close to the Arco Santa Catalina, this huge artisan shop had many locally made items for a reasonable price.

Some VERY odd art as well.

Pool, spa, massages, and dinner- that was the end of Sunday in Antigua.

Santiago de los Caballeros monument and Cerro de La Cruz

On our second (and last) morning in Antigua, we once again had an early start. There were a couple of places we haven’t visited yet, and we still had some time as our flight to Flores (from Guatemala City) was scheduled for 4pm.

We could have easily walked to the Cerro de La Cruz viewpoint from the hotel, but to save some time we took a quick Uber. We got out at the Santiago de los Caballeros monument and leisurely walked down the hill towards the viewpoint with the cross.

It’s a peaceful park that we had all to ourselves at 8 o’clock in the morning.

For breakfast we looked up gluten friendly (and well reviewed) place – Cafe Boheme and walked there from Cerro de La Cruz. Nice morning stroll passing colorful buildings and crumbling facades.

Cafe Boheme service was on the slow side, but the food was great – including GF bread and granola.

Iglesia y convento de las Capuchinas

The former church and the Capuchin convent is a very popular destination in Antigua and there is a reason for that. The architecture blends Spanish Colonial and Moorish styles, which is a dream to photograph.

Built to house no more than 25 nuns, this was a place were women coming from poverty could become nuns and not have to provide a dowry.

Damaged by 1751 earthquake it was later purchased by a private family and now is a museum with the government offices.

And that was our last site in Antigua (before checking out the museums in our hotel and another dip in the pool). Two nights and not even two full days in this lovely city was just enough. We didn’t feel rushed, but probably could have easily enjoyed one more night if we had time. Adventure continues, off to the world of Maya!

FLORES/TIKAL

We have seen quite a lot of ruins/pyramids already, so initially I was debating if it’s worth the hassle to go to Tikal. Besides the long drive, the easiest way to get there is an hour flight from Guatemala City to Flores. From Flores it’s about 1.5hr drive and you want to have that set up in advance, as Uber is not available in Flores or the surrounding area.

Since we spent a lot of time on the beach in Miami, and Guatemala’s beaches are more dark sand than white (which I prefer), we decided that adding a couple of nights in Flores and learning more about Mayan history is worth it. It really was! These pyramids were completely different from what we have seen, nestled in the jungle full of animals- it honestly was one of our favorite experiences in Guatemala.

Tag airlines have several flights per day and surprisingly are quite pricey. Make sure check the weight of your luggage (and prepare to pay extra). Our carry-on suitcases were considered too large for the small overhead bins, so we had to check them in. Even the backpacks were hard to fit up top, that’s how small the space is. Another thing to note- the plane boards from the back. So if you want to be first on the plane, select front row seats. However, that means you will be the last one to deplane.

All that being said- Tag got us to Flores and back to Guatemala City safe and sound. And that’s all that one can really ask from the airline these days.

Instead of going straight to our hotel, we decided to take a taxi to Flores downtown and see the sunset from the Sky Bar. I read that it’s great for sunset watching and it was less than 10 min drive from the airport. Well, the sunset was definitely great (we just made it), but the taxis in Flores were not the most pleasant people to say the least. Uber is not available, so unless you have the transportation set up, taxi is the only option. After some intense negotiations we got a guy to take us to Sky Bar. Flores downtown is definitely cute and is located on the island connected via bridge. Since we had our suitcases and the sun set quickly, we did not walk around more. As for Sky Bar- nobody even came to take our order in the whole time we were there, so we watched the sun go down and left. Then it was a pain to get a taxi to take us to the hotel. We called the number of the previous guy, he promised to come get us, 20 min later there was still no sign of him. Eventually another taxi drove by and took us. But even this one had issues- we clearly agreed it will be 150 Quetzales for both of us. I even showed him a number on the phone to make sure there is nothing lost in translation. And yet, as soon as he delivered us to our resort, he demanded that we pay 250, because we are ‘2 personas’. We did not give in and he left, but beware of scams like that. I was very glad we had a driver and tour booked for Tikal for the following morning. When taxis have no competition, they can be ruthless (and this is anywhere, Guatemala is no exception).

ACCOMODATION

There are hotels right in Tikal National Park, but that would mean a much longer drive to and from the airport. We wanted to be close to Flores and to have a nice place to stay- Las Lagunas Boutique Hotel fit the bill.

Las Lagunas Boutique Hotel

From the entire week in Guatemala this hotel was my favorite. And I slept the best here as well. Only 10 min drive from the airport (the opposite way from Flores downtown), the hotel overlooks Quexil Lagoon, surrounded by lush jungle. This place is secluded, but also not in the middle of nowhere.

Heated pool, individual huts (we chose the one with jacuzzi), and there is also a museum. Also, the restaurant was amazing.

They easily accommodated gluten free diet, and we loved every dish this place served.

Let’s not forget, there is also a spa where we got massages and I relaxed in a sauna. This place is truly a dream.

I loved walking around early in the morning and hearing the howling monkeys in the distance. The lagoon was still as glass and it truly was magical. Even though two nights in Flores is plenty of time to sightsee Tikal, I would’ve loved to stay one more night here.

Tikal National Park

Of course we did not fly here to relax at the hotel (no judgement if you do though!). We booked a driver/guide in advance and Donald from Tikal Express tour company was right on time at 5.30 am to pick us up. The time was selected by us (initially we planned 5am, but decided to ‘sleep in’). There are a few good reasons for an early start. First- Guatemala’s time zone is two hours back from EST. So for our bodies, 5.30am pick up really felt like 7.30am- not THAT bad. The weather in Tikal is VERY hot. When I saw that the temperature might reach 104F during the day, I had no doubts that we want to start early and get back to the comfort of the shade (and pool).

Also, the earlier you start, the best chance there is to see wild animals. The jungle wakes up with the sunrise and then quiets down during the heat of the day. It is 1.5 hr drive, so we reached Tikal right around 7am and still could hear the birds, watched the monkeys jump around, and observed coatimundis that were looking for food right near the parking lot.

Having a guide made a huge difference- not only could we get our questions answered about everything related to Maya, but he also would point out the trees (we now know what tree gum comes from), and spot the animals etc.

And of course – the ruins! One of the major sites of Mayan civilization, inhabited from 6 century BC to 10th century AD, this UNESCO World Heritage site is breathtaking. And not only from it’s incredible, well preserved structures, but also, it will take your breath away (literally) after you climb a few of them to the top.

Climbing is permitted (in certain areas) and there are special steps and walkways made to reach the top of some of the pyramids. That and the fact that the site is literally inside the jungle, was the biggest differentiator from other pyramids that we have seen so far.

It was not crowded and when our guide took us to Temple V- there was not a soul around the whole time we were there! Most of the people gathered in the Grand Plaza and never ventured to this side. So if you are there, make sure to visit Templo V.

Finally, when we arrived to the tallest structure, a group of people just left and we had it all to ourselves. Sean and I, on top of the (Mayan) world!

I would say you could spend the whole day or you could spend a few hours in Tikal- it’s really up to how fast you are going and how deep you want to dig into history and nature. We spent at least three hours and by then were pretty tired and started to get hot. More people were arriving when we were leaving, and all the animals were hiding by 10am. Time to head back and enjoy our amazing hotel. Tikal for sure was worth the trip!

LAKE ATITLÁN

Deepest lake in Central America, this body of water is in a massive volcanic crater and surrounded by the small Mayan villages. Some people refer to Lake Atitlán as one of the most beautiful lakes in the world. Of course we need to experience that! Logistically, it would probably be easier to go to Lake Atitlán before or after visiting Antigua. It would’ve saved us an hour or so of the drive. However, the way flights to Flores worked out, we ended up going from Guatemala City airport. Tag airlines got us from Flores to Guatemala City at noon (actually it arrived 30 min earlier than scheduled!) and we had to wait for our driver to come get us in the city traffic. Guatemala City traffic is one negative memory from Guatemala for me. But the driver came, car was comfortable and 3 hours later we safely arrived to Santa Catarina Palopó village.

ACCOMMODATIONS

There are so many hotels, hostels, and various options around the lake that, just like in Antigua, it was hard to decide where to stay. We ultimately got sold on the incredible view with an infinity pool in a charming little village.

Tzampoc Resort

Built into a massive hill (our car miraculously made it up!), this formerly private residence, now is a seven room resort.

As soon as we arrived we went to have lunch and check out this pool. The food I have to say was not that great- guacamole was too salty, while the main dish was kind of blah. But the bartender was great and every drink I had there was delicious!

Breakfast was the same every day and was simple but plentiful. You could choose the way you want your eggs, there was yogurt and granola and fruit- plus the amazing view.

The pool was cold, like actually cold, even on a hot day. Jacuzzi though tiny, was hot. We also asked to have the sauna ready (it takes about 1.5 hours) and they prepared it one evening, but it was more like a steam room with cold stone seats- not the sauna I normally like, so I think it’s not worth it.

We enjoyed three nights in this resort and after visiting several villages around the lake we came to conclusion that it was the best view in the area. One of the afternoons we were relaxing by the pool and met two cool girls from the USA. It was nice to have espresso martini together, chat about the trips, and enjoy this absolutely stunning sunset. I would say staying at this hotel is worth it for the views alone.

Santa Catarina Palopó

It is super safe to walk around, so the first afternoon that we arrived we decided to check out our village. Very local feel, super cute, and lots of colorful houses – even if you are not staying here, you should make a point to come visit.

Cute little artisan shops, even a Co-op, where the proceeds go to the town’s school, beautiful church, and the winding streets up the mountain.

We stopped to get some coffee and hot chocolate and just watched the kids play in the square. It felt like being part of the community, but also not intrusive.

Most of the people that live here are Mayan heritage, proud of their culture, and traditions. Pretty much all women wore colorful traditional skirts and blouses, which was not the case in the big city like Guatemala City. To revive the village economy “Painting for change”project was started. The colorfully painted houses attract tourism and increases income for the local families. Guatemalan journalist, working with the local designers, started this project where the local family can apply to get their house painted free of charge. In return they help the painter, keep the area around clean etc. It was really fun to get “lost” (you can’t really get lost here) in the steep colorful streets- don’t miss this village when near Lake Atitlán!

At the bottom of the hill, right by the dock we met our Capitán Manuel.

Initially we considered taking public boats (lanchas) around the lake to visit other villages. After a good negotiation, we agreed that the captain will take us (and wait for us) to San Marcos La Laguna, San Juan La Laguna, San Pedro La Laguna, Sebastian, and finally end in Panajachel. Full private day trip for 190 USD. I am sure you could get around for much cheaper, but in this case we didn’t have to go by the public boat schedule or wait for anyone. The freedom to leave the villages whenever we wanted was well worth the expense.

Since we didn’t love the lunch at our hotel, for dinner we went to Kinnik– restaurant/lounge a short walk away. It was so good, we returned for lunch another day as well!

We especially loved their version of tacos!

Atitlán villages tour

After breakfast, at 9.15 am we met captain Manuel at the dock and set off across the lake.

San Marcos La Laguna

The first village that we’ll visit is on the western side of Lake Atitlán and is known for it’s ‘hippy’ or ‘spiritual’ vibes.

There are a lot of yoga retreats, cacao ceremonies, however there is a lot less feeling of a local culture. Many places are owned or part owned by Americans and it’s not the vibe we came to Guatemala for. We had some delicious cocoa in The Hidden Garden Atitlan caffe, it seemed like a nice place to hangout, but also felt extremely inauthentic. Westerners working on their laptops, marijuana smell in some areas of the garden, it could pass for the West Coast of the USA and did not resemble authentic Guatemala in any shape or form.

Overall San Marcos La Laguna did not impress us much, so after about 1.5 hours here we went back to the boat and continued to the next village.

San Juan La Laguna

A short boat ride from San Marcos La Laguna we reached a cute and busy San Juan La Laguna village. Here our captain had a person waiting for us, so that she could bring us to a few demonstrations at the local artisan shops. Weaving and textiles was first, then we learned about the local bees and honey, followed by the cacao and chocolate and finally Guatemalan coffee making process.

The super cute umbrella covered street leads up the hill, where you can find the church and more art covered side streets.

We really liked this village- it was a mix of local people and a lot of tourists, but didn’t feel like foreigners have taken over the village (like in San Marcos).

If we had more time- there is a viewpoint that you need a tuk-tuk to get up to, but because we wanted to see more villages we decided skip that.

San Pedro La Laguna

This was another village where as soon as we left the boat we were met by the local tuk-tuk driver, who, for a small additional price, offered to take us to a few viewpoints. Since we didn’t do a viewpoint in San Juan, we figured might as well go to this one.

First stop was San Pedro La Laguna church- very similar to the ones we’ve seen before, but no less beautiful and decorated for Easter.

The driver waited while we looked around and then up the hill we went! The viewpoint access was paid (small fee, carry small local bills if you can), but it was beautiful and completely free of people!

The laying down photo op, a swing and of course there is a hand! Guatemala and it’s hands, but hey- it makes a good prop for a photo!

We really liked this view point and when the driver stopped at another place that had an entrance fee we decided that we’ve seen enough. It was like a rooftop of someone’s house with basically the same view we have just seen, so we asked to take us back to the boat.

San Pedro looked like a cute village and I believe it has a good night life too if you are on this side of the lake!

Santiago Atitlán

I’d say this was the LEAST touristy of all the villages, almost to the point of no tourist attractions. But also, for the same reason it was unique, because we could truly see the local Mayan village life. Women washing clothes in the lake, artisan market, church- those were the few landmarks that we passed by.

The most unique thing about this village is that locals worship town’s deity- Maximón. Or also known as El Gran Abuelo, who takes residence in a different family’s home each year.

There is a sad history of some assassinations by Guatemalan government in this village and therefore federal militia is not allowed in the town by the locals.

I would say if you have no time, you could potentially skip this village, but if you want to just feel the local culture, it’s a great short stop.

Panajachel

Commonly referred as “Pana”, Panajachel is the hub of Lake Atitlán and this is where most tourists arrive before going to the other villages. It’s only 20 min tuk-tuk ride from Santa Catarina Palopó, so we decided to end our boat tour here and take the tuk-tuk back to the hotel.

I think our captain was also relieved his day is over- we saw him riding a bike in Panajachel as we were strolling down the main Calle Santander street.

I would not describe this village as ‘most beautiful’, but it has the infrastructure. There are many restaurants, hotels/hostels, and plenty of shopping opportunities. We came across a great restaurant- Humaya Restaurante– creative and delicious meals and cocktails!

The town is lively, so we actually returned here for dinner on the last night in Lake Atitlán. There was a procession happening in our village- the street was closed for an hour to all traffic. We walked the closed off section on foot and then got a tuk-tuk. Religious processions are taken very seriously in Guatemala!

Last dinner in Panajachel was at Guajimbo’s Restaurant. It was good, a lot of food, but I preferred Humaya for a more elevated experience in this village.

And that is three nights in Lake Atitlán! On the last day we relaxed by the pool, got some sun, the hotel did our laundry (free of charge!), and on Saturday morning our driver picked us up for the drive to Guatemala City. It is a three hour drive (with no traffic) and we initially considered doing it in the evening. I am glad we changed our mind and left by 9am. Traffic was not so bad and we realized that the road has no lights- had we stayed until afternoon, the same drive would have been a lot less comfortable and even scary. The driver told us that a lot of cars don’t use lights, so accidents happen- I would avoid being on this road past sunset.

GUATEMALA CITY

While preparing for the trip, I read a lot of mixed reviews. Some liked Guatemala City, while others said it’s a good chance to not make it out of there without being robbed/stabbed etc. Our flight was Sunday at 3.15pm and we got to Guatemala City right around noon on Saturday. I am not the one to sit in a hotel for 24 hours, so safe or not- we are exploring it.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Hyatt Centric Guatemala City

The key for Guatemala City is to be in the right Zone. The city is divided in zones and some are super safe, while others even locals don’t want to go to. We chose the hotel based on the reviews, proximity to the airport (15 min) and the fact that it had an outdoor rooftop pool.

Located in Zona 10, this place was very convenient for the 24 hours that we were here for. This zone is considered safe, but our Uber drivers still advised to not walk around in the dark, especially in the empty streets and it being just two of us. We really liked the hotel pool as it was heated, and we enjoyed it until the very last minute when we needed to head to the airport.

Ciudad Cayalá

Short Uber ride away (Uber works great in Guatemala City) and you will feel like you got transported to one of the European towns. Ciudad Cayalá reminded me of my home town Kaunas or Lithuania’s capital Vilnius with it’s white buildings, cobble stone streets, and the overall clean, posh feel.

This is Zone 16 and there were no worries about being robbed here. Fancy designer stores, restaurants, people dressed to impress- it’s like you are in a completely different world all together. A big contrast to the simple villages and women wearing traditional clothes.

We had delicious lunch at Casa Escobar and walked around Paseo Cayalá for a bit.

I think this was my favorite area in Guatemala City.

Centro Historicó

Zone 1, definitely not the safest area, but we never felt unsafe here either. Busy Plaza de la Constitucion, beautiful Catedral Metropolitana– during the day this area was full of people and I am glad we came to visit.

A few steps away there is a huge Central Market (Mercado Central)– three or four floors of goods from food to artisan work to furniture.

We craved ice cream and looked up a well rated place that was another quick Uber ride- Helados Adela. The area where this shop is in also seemed pretty cute and walkable.

In the evening we didn’t want to go far, but close by was a well regarded mall- Oakland Place. It’s always fun to see how the malls look in the other countries, and this one was VERY similar to the ones we have in the USA. In fact, it was hard to find stores that we don’t have at home.

On our last morning (before lounging by the pool) we had amazing breakfast at the 100% gluten free cafe- Celieti. From the main meals to all the pastries (we took some to go)- everything was amazing and ‘sin harina‘ (without flour).

What a great find! Too bad there is nothing even similar to this near our home…

CONCLUSION

Go to Guatemala. That is my conclusion 🙂 . I can’t say that this country surprised me- I went with pretty high expectations and it did not disappoint. It was consistently great. The food, the people, and the hotels we stayed in. We saw more of the local life and culture than what we even expected – the religious processions were a pleasant surprise. What was the best (and what we always look in our travels) is that it was authentic. It didn’t feel Americanized (except San Marcos La Laguna village), it was as if Guatemalans are living their lives, having their celebrations, but also are welcoming to tourists and you sort of fold into their world. There is not yet (at least we didn’t feel like it) the bow to tourists like it felt in Costa Rica. I am sure Guatemala is benefitting from the tourism, but it’s not yet their God. It was great to speak Spanish, enjoy traditional dishes, appreciate the nature, and feel like we went to a unique welcoming country that hasn’t sold it’s soul. Who knows how it will change in the upcoming years, but we loved the Guatemala that we saw today.