SAINT KITTS AND NEVIS

OVERVIEW

• When: 14 February – 17 February 2025
• Where (accommodations): St. Kitts Marriott Resort & The Royal Beach Casino
• Transportation: American Airlines flight from Miami (MIA) to Basseterre, St. Kitts (SKB), ABC Car Hire, iConnect ferry round trip from St. Kitts to Nevis
• Sights/attractions: St. Kitts: Timothy Hill Overlook, Basseterre (Port Zante, Berkeley Memorial Clock, Independence Square, Immaculate Conception Catholic Co-Cathedral), Brimstone Hill Fortress, Cockleshell Beach, South Friars Bay Beach, Caribelle Batik at the Romney Manor; Nevis: Bath Hotel, Nevis Hot Springs, Hamilton Sugar Mill, Lovers Beach, Oualie Beach, Cottle church, St Thomas Anglican church, Nevis Artisan Village, Pinney’s Beach
• Food/drinks: St Kitts: The Pavilion in Christophe Harbour, Sweet & Savory St Kitts, Marshall’s Restaurant, Lion Rock Beach Bar & Grill, The View at the Palms Court Gardens, Maggies Coffee Shop; Nevis: Golden Rock Inn, Drift Restaurant, Sunshines Restaurant.

We usually go for a long weekend to take advantage of the President’s Day holiday that’s always on a Monday. It’s even better when it coincides with Valentine’s Day. Romantic getaway to the Caribbean? Sign me up!

Saint Kitts and Nevis is a dual-island nation located between the Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean Sea in the West Indies, in the Leeward Islands chain of the Lesser Antilles. This is the smallest country in Western Hemisphere (both in size and population). Saint Kitts and Nevis were one of the first islands in the Caribbean to be colonized by Europeans and it’s the most recent British territory to become independent. It gained independence in 1983, and by being its own country, it adds to my visited country list as #70!

Back in 1640s St. Kitts had a nickname ‘Sugar City’. Sugar was the main crop on the island and was worth more than gold. Former sugar plantations are scattered across both islands and some are converted to inns and restaurants. There is a lot of history (very sad one, especially related to slave labor), so find time to visit some of the sights while on these islands.

No visas are needed (for Lithuanians or Americans), but you do need to complete an online form and present a QR code upon arrival. The form can be found here.

It was a very easy entrance to the islands, but beware of the departure. We were so relaxed after the trip and had only a 9 min drive to the airport, so we were quite shocked with the treatment at security. Everyone needed to put their liquids (regardless of how tiny the jar was) into a quart-size zip lock bag. This used to be a strict requirement, but in the several years of traveling we have only encountered such strictness in London Heathrow. Anywhere else, liquids were not required to be taken out, and, if they were, nobody forced to fit them in the small bag. As long as each item was no bigger than 3 oz, we never had an issue – up until departing St. Kitts. Since we didn’t have the exact size baggies, they made us purchase them for 1 USD each (absurd). Then, we had to place all toiletries in them and zip it. If it didn’t zip, something had to be tossed. We arrived with the same toiletries 3 nights ago and did not purchase anything liquid, but the staff at the airport didn’t want to hear any of this. On top of that, backpacks were taken apart and manually checked pocket by pocket- there were A LOT of unhappy women at this airport, I’ll tell you that.

Either way we loved St. Kitts and had a great time. Grumpy airport staff did not ruin the experience, the islands are still beautiful and I’d definitely recommend visiting!

ACCOMMODATION

St. Kitts Marriott Resort & The Royal Beach Casino

We chose this hotel mostly for the convenience – centrally located in St. Kitts it was perfect for our short three night stay. If you are looking for more luxury, check out Park Hyatt Christophe Harbour– it looked a lot fancier, but also the price was three times what Marriott was charging. We were not planning on spending much time in the hotel, so to pay $1000+per night seemed unreasonable.

Marriott was not super luxurious, but comfortable. They even provided a little welcome gift- beach bag, sunblock and a floaty. There are several pools (not very warm), a jacuzzi that we enjoyed the first evening and several restaurants on-premises.

The beach on this side of the island was not great- there was a lot of seaweed and rocks, so we only took some pictures and never went in. We had a late lunch upon arrival on Friday at their poolside bar and it was not bad, but way overpriced for the quality of food, so we didn’t have any other meals at Marriott. We only used this hotel for sleep and a visit to the casino one evening. Worth mentioning- parking is free, which was was very convenient, and the caffe in the lobby has AMAZING gluten free cookies and chocolate banana bread.

We rented a car from ABC Car Hire and I can’t recommend them enough! No wonder the rating is nearly 5 stars on Google. The owner’s son was waiting for us at the arrivals and the car was ready to go right in front. We have had so many bad experiences with Avis that this was a refreshing surprise. No wait, no delays- he even provided us a map and a booklet for sights in St. Kitts. Family owned business and it truly was the best experience. They don’t have service in Nevis, so we knew that if we got a flat when we were there for a day, we’d have to change it ourselves, but luckily nothing happened, so it never came down to that.

NEVIS

‘Queen of the Caribees’ was the nickname that the smaller of the two sister islands used to have back in the day. The island produced more sugar than a much larger Jamaica, and had a profitable slave trade- there is a lot of sad and dark history in Nevis. Only 36 square miles, but no lack of sights. We came for a day trip with car, which was the best decision. iConnect ferry departed Major’s Bay at 9am (it’s about an hour one way), and returned back to St. Kitts from Nevis Long Point at 4pm. We wished it was a bit later departure, but those are the times that this new ferry operates. There are other ferry companies, but based on the reviews some of them were not super reliable and we only had a day, so we went with a pricier, but new and very well rated iConnect. It left right on time and the ride was smooth. I get sea sick sometimes, but on this ferry I didn’t get even slightly nauseous.

We booked the tickets in advance, but it was pretty empty, at least in the passengers lounge. The deck for the cars was quite full, so if you are bringing the car, I’d suggest reserving ahead of time.

On this ferry we met some cool, travel loving people, so the ride flew by chatting about the favorite countries and trips.

Bath Hotel

Our first stop upon arrival was Bath Hotel.

Built out of stone in 1778, this is a National Heritage Site and claims to be the first hotel in the Caribbean! Unfortunately it’s under renovation, so we could only see it from the outside.

Nevis Hot Springs

Right near the Bath Hotel there are Nevis Hot Springs that claim to cure all the ailments! Who does not want to heal all aches and pains?! The pools are different shapes, sizes and temperature. There is a small fee to use the baths, there are bathrooms and changing rooms.The lady also rents little towels for those that don’t want to fully submerge into the water. We brought bathing suits and went all in, some people only dipped their feet.

One of the pools was fully tiled, while others just had pebbles on the bottom and had more dirt, but we tried them all! When we arrived they were empty, but then the bus from the cruise ship showed up, so it got a bit busier. They did not stay long and it was enough space for all.

The water in some of the pools gets up to 108F and contains minerals that claim to cure rheumatism, gout, and other chronic illnesses. It was nice to just relax in the hot pools before continuing the drive around the island. You can rinse off afterwards with the fresh water, which we did before changing back into our clothes. It’s a simple establishment, but we liked it! There was a lady selling home made drinks and we got a few- one made from soursop fruit (smelly, but delicious!) and the other was ‘Christmas in a bottle’- red drink that we were told was ‘full of antioxidants’. Both were very good and refreshing on a hot day!

Hamilton Estate

To get to this former sugar mill we needed to drive up a steep road, but our little car made it with no issues! The sight now is ruins, with former machinery rusting away, but it has a well organized and detailed plaques near each fragment, so it’s great for learning some of the island’s history.

As abandoned as the site looks, it was more like an open air museum. No need for a guide, just arrive, read and explore around the ruins. Worth the stop!

On the way from the Hamilton Estate we saw monkeys cross the road and climb into a tree. We stopped and watched a few of the cuties sit on a branch and eat some fruit.

Overall, while driving in Nevis don’t go fast- goats, monkeys, chickens, and dogs roam free and often crossing the road.

Golden Rock Inn

Another former sugar plantation, now converted into an Inn and a restaurant with the gorgeous gardens surrounding the place. We didn’t eat here, because it was still a bit early for lunch, but glad we came to see it.

The gardens were designed by Miami-based designer Raymond Jungles under the stewardship of New York artists Helen and Brice Marden, owners of Golden Rock.

Drift Restaurant

With all the driving and sightseeing it’s finally time to eat. My sister recommended this place (she looked up the islands that we are going to and said- look, this place is nice for sunset!). We could not stay for sunset since our boat back was at 4pm, but instead had an amazing lunch.

The place has a gorgeous view of St. Kitts and the blue water. Piña colada was perfect and so was the grilled mahi mahi and the curry chicken dishes. We still talk about that food!

Lovers Beach and Oualie Beach

Island exploration continues and we are always on the lookout for the best beaches. Lovers Beach was right near the Drift restaurant, Oualie Beach is a short drive from there.

We only stopped for the photos- both beaches had seaweed and didn’t look appealing to spend more time.

If we were to stay, Oualie Beach looked better and had shade options.

Cottle Church

Again, super short drive so we didn’t want to miss it. This church was built by the request of Thomas Cottle, the lawyer who lived on Nevis.

Slaves built it in 1824 and they also were allowed to worship here, which was not a usual practice in these times. That’s what sets this church apart from many other Anglican churches in the islands.

There is a lot of sad history, we learned a lot by just a short visit to this site.

St Thomas Anglican church

On the way to our next point of interest we stopped at the fruit and veggies stand. Not all produce is local, some imported from the nearby islands, so I was very clear- please only give me the local fruits. It was more than enough. I got a huge watermelon, a few mangos, melon, cantaloupe and she threw in a starfruit for good measure. We cut it up back in the hotel and had enough fruit for three days!

Last stop –St. Thomas Anglican Church and historical sight. Initially this church was built from wood, but after being damaged by several hurricanes it was rebuilt.

Nothing fancy, just like other Anglican churches. And with that, sightseeing part of Nevis is over!

Nevis Artisan Village

Before we lay down on the beach we wanted to see if we could find some local goods. The colorful artisan village was cute, but only a few shops were open. We got a magnet for $10 USD (Nevis is quite pricey), looked around and that was it. Most clothes were not locally made, so it was nothing worth getting.

Pinney’s Beach

Finally, we relax! Pinney’s Beach looked like the nicest one on Nevis and with no seaweed or rocks. Though there were some rocky parts under the water, so we mostly got in and swam around.

We rented umbrella and chairs for an hour and fully relaxed before taking the ferry back. And of course I had to try the famous Killer Bee drink from the Sunshine’s Bar and lounge. We’ve heard stories that the drink might be infused with THC (bartender never mentioned it), so I had one small one and was completely fine. However, there was a group of ladies on the ferry back that had a pitcher (about 3 drinks each) and they were OUT, laying on the chairs the whole ferry ride back:). I am still not convinced there was any infusion, maybe just a strong rum punch, but just in case, beware!

Oh, and the ferry. We put location in the Google Maps for iConnect, and when we arrived realized it’s NOT the right port. It leaves from Long Point (same place we arrived to), but somehow it’s not correct on the Google Maps. We asked for directions and people were not able to tell us on the map were it is, they were like- take a right at the roundabout, then left near whatever the store is- basically we put location for the Bath hotel, since that was our first stop, and then from the memory backtracked our steps. We made it to the ferry by 3.59pm. With one minute to spare! Phew, my buzz from the Killer Bee completely evaporated by then 🙂 .

SAINT KITTS

Food

I am starting with the food because it was the most surprising part about St. Kitts- how great was the culinary experience we had! As a former British territory, we had no expectations when it comes to creative cuisine. All three dinners were exceptional!

The Pavilion in Christophe Harbour

This hidden gem is a place that I stumbled across while looking for a restaurant for Valentine’s dinner. Unlike most of the restaurants, this one did not have an option to simply click “Reserve,” but I found an email for concierge and decided to give it a shot. What luck! They had availability on Friday, Valentine’s day for 6 or 8pm (we chose the latter).

This is an exclusive beach club and to become a member you need to either own a piece of land in St. Kitts or rent a slip in the marina (presumably for your yacht). We didn’t know this until we had a chat with the friendly staff/manager.

When we arrived it was very windy, so they put us in the somewhat sheltered area where they normally do private events. There was one more table, but that reservation got cancelled, so it ended up being just us- private Valentine’s dinner for two! And what a great dinner it was! From the app to the main course, to the best GF chocolate cake- we loved it all.

As of now they are only open for dinner on Thursdays and Fridays, but are planing to expand and to have more availability. To book, email concierge at concierge@christopheharbour.com, trust me, it’s worth it!

Sweet and Savory Bistro

This was our breakfast place for two out of three mornings in St Kitts. We did not want to eat Marriott’s continental breakfast that was about $40 pp and Sweet and Savory was right across the street. Bright and inviting caffe, delicious omelettes – we got the same meal two days in a row.

Maggie’s Coffee Shop

On our last morning in St. Kitts we wanted to try a different breakfast place and checked out Maggie’s Coffee Shop. Also great menu, pleasant staff, and a cute puppy that kept us company during the meal!

Marshall’s Restaurant

No, this is not a retail store, but a white table cloth restaurant with the nice views (if you come before sunset). I have a mixed review about this place. It looked nice, all was well until we had to wait 1.5 hours for our food. We got an app (green papaya salad with shrimp) and that took at least 30 min. They do not have gluten free bread, so no bread and butter for us. And then we waited. And waited. Until we finally got our duck and lamb chops. None of which required a long cooking. The large tables kept getting served food, but us and another couple were being ignored. We asked several times how much longer will it take and were ready to leave when finally the food arrived.

It was definitely delicious, but when you are eating dinner at 9.30pm, anything might taste good. And then the dessert- nowhere did it say about alcohol in the Crème brûlée. It was swimming in rum! Of course I ate it, but Sean was left dessert-less. Maybe it was just a busy Saturday night, maybe they were short staffed, but we would not return, simply because of the long wait.

The View at Palms Court Gardens

For our last night, we booked (in advance) dinner at this gorgeous place. When we arrived we thought we are at the hotel- pool, jacuzzi, lounge chairs, and the most incredible views!

It used to be someone’s house, now it’s a restaurant that also sells day passes to enjoy the views by the pool! We had a great dinner and chatted with a very friendly server (he recommended Maggie’s coffee shop for breakfast), and we immediately reserved spots for our last afternoon in the islands.

Marriott was only a few min longer drive to the airport than the Palms Court Gardens, but this place looked a lot better. Adults only (Marriott had a lot of loud kids), beautiful views, hot jacuzzi and delicious food- what’s not to love. We came here after the morning of sightseeing on Monday and stayed up until very last minute when we had to go to the airport. It’s only 9 min away, so could not have been more perfect!

Oh, and they cut up the remaining fruit that we had from the vendor stand. Made it into this gorgeous board (we shared it with the staff). Very much recommend this place for both dinner and the day pass!

St. Kitts Sights

Timothy Hill Overlook

This is definitely the most beautiful view (in my opinion) in St. Kitts island. Less than 15 min drive from the Marriott hotel and it was on the way to the Major’s Bay where we picked up the ferry to Nevis, so we stopped there twice.

In the morning it was beautiful, but the light was a bit harsh.

On the way back it looked a lot better as it was closer to sunset.

It’s basically St. Kitts postcard- in the 360-degree view you can see Atlantic Ocean, Caribbean Sea, Frigate and Friars Bays and Nevis island. If there is one stop to make on this island, it’s Timothy Hill!

Basseterre

The capital and the largest city of St. Kitts, so we wanted to at least have a quick look. Port Zante is where the cruise ships dock and this area can get quite busy. We came on a Sunday and there was only one cruise ship, so it was quiet and empty.

The main sights are all within walking distance- Berkeley Memorial Clock, Independence Square and the Immaculate Conception Catholic Co-Cathedral.

We didn’t spend more than an hour- everything is near by, so a quick visit is all it takes.

Brimstone Hill Fortress

After a short sightseeing of the capital we headed to the Brimstone Hill Fortress. I was surprised how much I actually enjoyed this place! We have seen many castles and fortresses, so part of me was just thinking to skip this and spend the day at the beach. I am glad I didn’t listen to the lazy side:) .

The views from the fortress are sweeping! On a clear day we could see the neighboring islands and there were only a couple other people around. I don’t know if we just came at the right time, but everywhere we went in St. Kitts it seemed like cruise travelers were not leaving the ship.

On the first floor there is an interesting museum illustrating the fort’s and overall island’s history. Well made, easy to follow- don’t skip it if you are already at the Brimstone Hill Fortress.

Romney Manor

This was our last ‘tour’ on St. Kitts Monday morning. Romney Manor is located on the grounds of Wingfield Estate and is a home for Caribelle Batik.

That is the company that produces colorful hand made batik fabrics using the ancient art form that initiated in Indonesia. Using the hot wax the fabric is painted and then dyed, then painted again and dyed another color- this creates unique, one of a kind designs and patterns.

You can see the demonstration, walk around the beautiful gardens, and shop for some colorful locally made items.

It is a bit of a drive up the steep hill, but was worth it!

Beaches

South Friars Bay Beach

We only stopped here, because it was on the way, but didn’t stay long. There seemed to be a bit of rocks and it didn’t look that inviting to hangout for the day.

Cockleshell Beach

We did not drive around the whole St. Kitts island, so I can’t attest what beaches are up north. But from what we have seen, Cockleshell was the nicest beach on this island. No seaweed, white sand, wide and long- plenty of space. Even if there were more people it would be hard to feel crowded but once again-we had it pretty much to ourselves!

We spent the whole afternoon here and relaxed. There are beach chairs and umbrellas for rent and you have a few options for food. At 1.30pm Lion Rock Beach Bar & Grill opened and we had their delicious lunch. I also tried the fruit punch and a piña colada, because when in Rome…(I mean St. Kitts…)

Reggae music, fresh, flavorful, HUGE meal, refreshing drink and a beautiful view- can’t ask for more, just feeling grateful.

Frigate Bay Beach

This was the last beach that we visited and we came here for sunset. We only spent three evenings in St. Kitts and never woke up for the sunrise, so it would be a shame to leave and not see at least one sunset!

We are in luck! Short drive from Marriott resort and we got a perfect, unobstructed view of the sun dipping into the ocean. Now our mini trip is complete!

CONCLUSION

Quick getaway from Miami, but it feels like we’ve been gone a week. Surprisingly there was plenty to do on these small islands, and I am glad we got to see both- St. Kitts and Nevis. In a way, they are similar, but also unique. Both were quiet when we were there, but Nevis felt super relaxed. We did not do any hiking, but for those that are into hikes- these islands have a lot of great options! Of course there are beautiful beaches- you are in the Caribbean after all. But what surprised us the most was the food. We ate like kings every day and will always remember this island as a place where we had consistently delicious meals. From a simple beach shack, to the fancy, exclusive members restaurant- we always left happily full. We probably could’ve spent a couple more days, but it didn’t feel like the there was a lot left to see and do. It’s a great destination for a long weekend getaway and made a sweet Valentine’s Day escape!