OSAKA, JAPAN

OVERVIEW

• When: Total trip August 1-18, 2024. Osaka: August 10-12, 2024
• Where (accommodations): Swissôtel Nankai Osaka
• Transportation: Air Canada from Boston (BOS) to Montreal (YUL) to Tokyo Narita (NRT). Shinkansen train from Hiroshima to Osaka
• Sights/attractions:  Namba Yasaka Shrine, Umeda Sky Building, Osaka Castle, Tsutenaku Tower, Shinsekai, Dotonbori, Glico Running Man
• Food/drinks: Oretachino-curry Ramen Koji Labo Osaka-namba, Rikuro Daimaru Shinsaibashi, Wanomiya Kobe Beef restaurant, Cheese Tart Pablo, Sushi Takeuchi

A short train ride from both Kyoto and Tokyo, Osaka is a popular city for first time Japan visitors. For us it was a bit longer train, since we were coming from Hiroshima, but even so, 1hr and 30 min Shinkansen ride was a breeze. That was our last bullet train in Japan on this trip, so we were a bit sad that it ended so quickly.

As for Osaka itself – we did not have ANY expectations. Somehow we all had more or less images of what we’ll see in Tokyo, Kyoto and even Hiroshima, but for Osaka we were not even that excited (just being fully transparent). Well, well, well- we were in for a pleasant surprise! It turned out to be our second favorite city in Japan (after Kyoto) and we were shocked just how much we enjoyed it!

Endearingly called “The kitchen of Japan” this city is vibrant, fun, and most importantly, full of amazing food. From the simple restaurants in the malls to the fancy Kobe beef, to omakase sushi – we ate our way through Osaka. Two days was just a small ‘bite’ of what we could experience here, so when in doubt- for sure don’t skip it!

ACCOMMODATION

We were only staying in Osaka for two nights (before flying out to Taipei, Taiwan), so it was important to stay in a convenient location.

Swissôtel Nankai Osaka is literally near the Namba train station, in the heart of Namba district. This area is famous for its shopping and restaurants. We got off at Shin-Osaka station and took a taxi (about 17 min) to the hotel, where our luggages were waiting for us already. If you read my Tokyo Drift post, you’ll know about the amazing luggage shipping services that most of Japan hotels provide. We traveled with our carry-on bags while the larger suitcase was shipped from Tokyo to Osaka. This way we did not need to lunge it around to Kyoto and Hiroshima.

The rooms in this hotel were comfortable but pretty small. Breakfast on the high floor restaurant was delicious. Pool and jacuzzi were great after shopping and sightseeing. Also, nobody had any issues with tattoos.

One thing to note- it was a bit tricky to find the entrance/exit because it’s located inside the mall. We had to map out the fastest exit, especially when planning our travel to the airport early in the morning. Upon arrival we spent some time wandering around, but once we figured it out, it was not that complicated at all. Just don’t expect the usual entrance from the street like most of the hotels are.

Oretachino-curry Ramen Koji Labo Osaka-namba

By the time we arrived and dropped off our bags it was lunch time, so without further delay we started sampling Osaka’s delicacies. Oretachino-curry Ramen Koji Labo Osaka-namba is a small restaurant that luckily was not too busy and a short walk from the hotel. You go inside, order your food on the tap screen, get the receipt, and wait outside. Once your turn comes, you are welcome to be seated at the counter and enjoy all of the delicious food!

It’s known for it’s curry dishes- both in ramen and with rice. The egg was boiled to perfection and everything was very tasty. Simple, but satisfying lunch.

Namba Yasaka Shrine

We have visited many shrines on this trip, but this one is nothing like what we’ve seen before. Also it was a short taxi ride away from the restaurant, so we could not miss it.

Massive lion’s head (though it looks more like a green monster)- even if you don’t care much about shrines, I think this one is worth visiting.

Umeda Sky Building

Another quick taxi, and we are in the business district of Umeda. Sleek and shiny two towers connected by glass bridges- this building is a work of art even from the outside.

As you get to the observation deck on the 39th and 40th floors you will have the bird’s eye view of Osaka.

There is an open air deck, so make sure to walk around! There was a local artist selling cute robot charms, he even did a little sketch with purchase.

We liked this skyscraper and would recommend visiting while in Osaka. Buy tickets online to avoid the queue!

Osaka Castle

We are determined to see most of the Osaka’s landmarks today, so Osaka Castle is next. Build in 1580s it is one of the largest castles in Japan. It is also very busy and touristy. We did not buy tickets in advance and when we arrived there were super long lines. But just like in many places- if you buy your ticket online (while standing in queue), you can leave the long line and enter from a separate line very quickly. So that’s what we did and saved us at least 45 min, if not more.

In my humble opinion, the inside of the castle is not really much to write home about. It does have an observation deck and the views are nice, but as far as inside goes- meh. There were many videos (which we did not watch) and overall was crowded and not that captivating.

If you are short on time, maybe see it from the outside, enjoy the park and that would be enough. Otherwise, at least buy tickets online to save yourself time.

Daimaru Shinsaibashi

Daimaru is a popular department store/mall and we went there in-between sightseeing. The main reason was to try Rikuro cheesecake -fluffy and jiggly, light like a cloud.

In fact Sean went and bought the cheesecake, while Agne and I shopped for sneakers at Onitsuka Tiger store. I think cheesecake is a bit overrated- it was indeed light (3 of us ate the whole thing in one sitting and were not even remotely full). It’s more like a mousse or souffle than the cheesecake texture or flavor. It’s not bad by any means, but not a ‘wow’ for me personally.

On the other hand- Onitsuka Tiger sneakers are AMAZING. We don’t have a store in the USA and if there is a way to get it online, then they are much more expensive. They are real leather, super light and walking in them feels like you are wearing soft slippers. Only regret that I bought one pair and not more!

SHINSEKAI

Shisenkai ( “New World”) is a district in Osaka that was developed before the World War I and then neglected in the decades afterwards.

Tsutenkaku Tower is right in the middle of this area and is definitely one of the first things that I associate with Osaka. It is a very lively area, lots of lights and restaurants, fun and interesting wall decorations and the statues of Billiken– a golden smiling mythical figure that lots of people believe brings good luck!

It was coming closer to sunset and all the lights made this area even more festive.

Super fun to walk around and try some food if you have the time!

DOTONBORI

Kobe Beef WANOMIYA

Kobe is less than an hour away from Osaka. And Kobe is known for its world class marble Kobe beef. It is super expensive and hard to find outside of Japan, so even though we are not in Kobe, we are VERY close to it. There will be no better chance to try Kobe beef on this trip than a dinner in Osaka.

Agne and Cosimo treated us to this wonderful experience (thank you Agne and Co!) at Kobe Beef WANOMIYA– the restaurant than won many awards and they proudly displayed them!

Sean and I don’t cook or eat meat at home for over five years. We have some on the weekends when we go out and when we travel. But if we had this type of meat, I swear I think I would eat it daily. It was THAT GOOD. Tender, juicy, melt in your mouth good.

There are many places in Osaka (and I am sure all over Japan) that sells Kobe beef. Don’t leave this country without having some! It will ruin meat for you forever, so there is that too. We are now so extremely judgmental of any meat that we have back in the USA. It’s hard to find a place (especially reasonably priced) that we actually enjoy. True Kobe beef snobs over here 🙂 .

Glico Running Man and more

After dinner we walked alongside Dotonbori canal and explored this popular area. It’s especially lively in the evening and the lights and neon signs make it even more fun. It felt like Times Square of Osaka in a way.

One of the famous landmarks is the Glico Running Man sign. It dates back to 1935 and has gone though several updates and improvements.

The Running Man advertises Glico, the manufacturer of one of Asia’s most famous confectionery companies. Glico’s most popular product is Pocky, which is the confectionery coated pretzel sticks which are very popular in Japan and abroad.

The reason why the running man was chosen to be Glico’s mascot is said to derived from Gilco’s first product, a candy caramel. Company founder Ri-ichi Ezaki created the snack in 1922 as an energy product by adding glycogen from oysters to the snack. It was said each treat could give you energy to run 300 meters, so a running man has been used to this day as the companies mascot and logo.

We wandered around Osaka with no particular rush and this city grew on us more and more.

In one day we saw pretty much everything we wanted from the touristy landmarks. We have one more day here, so we considered going to Universal Studios Japan park (even though I have no love for these type of parks). However, after looking at the last minute tickets and realizing that fast passes were sold out, we decided against it. It was forecasted to be a VERY hot day and standing in lines for hours (without a guarantee to even get on the rides we’d like) was not an appealing way of spending our time in Japan.

Eat, shop, repeat

Now that most of the touristy sights are out of the way, we have a relaxing day for shopping and eating. We are on vacation after all. We didn’t even go far- hotel is so conveniently located, that you can access several malls without needing any taxi or train.

As we were busy planning our shopping day, Japan was preparing for the MEGA quake. We saw it on TV and realized how ill-prepared we are if the earthquake happens while we are there. Luckily the area where it was expected did not reach Osaka, so once we confirmed that with the hotel, we decided not to worry. Might as well go and spend some money!

We spent the whole day in Shinsaibashi– ate at the delicious food options in the malls, so no idea of the restaurant’s names to share. I think you can’t really go wrong either way.

You are in “The Kitchen of Japan”- try as many different meals as possible!

We had these mini desserts from Cheese Tart Pablo Shinsaibashi– it was like a cross mix between a cheesecake and a creme brûlée. Multiple different flavors, highly recommend it.

While Agne and I shopped for some Japanese cosmetics, Sean and Cosimo had fun just walking around and taking pictures of Legos and other toys.

Where in the USA malls are a dying breed, in Japan it’s a very much popular and busy place. Even if you don’t buy anything, it’s still a pretty cool place to see.

Whatever we bought, we packed in our extra suitcase (make sure to carry the passport with you to get Tax Free credit!) and arranged to ship it to the last hotel in Tokyo. Tomorrow we fly out to Taipei, so no need to drag everything with us, I can’t recommend that luggage shipping service enough.

Sushi Takeuchi

Last dinner in Osaka and we agreed that we could go for sushi. Wonderful omakase with multi course meals prepared right in front of us was amazing.

As always, sake was overflowing and every dish was super fresh.

There is a funny story about this dinning experience though. In Japan it’s considered rude to blow your nose in public. It is NOT considered rude to sniffle. One of our servers, who pretty much stood behind us the entire dinner was sniffling NON STOP. It was beyond the point of being annoying, so we eventually were bursting into hysterical laughing fits.

Imagine you are eating this AMAZING food.

And your background ‘music’ is a guy sniffling. Sean at one point offered him a napkin : ) . The guy did not get the message and brought more napkins for Sean, thinking that he’s asking for one! My sister and I were in tears from laughter and at this point could not do much more than accept it. Food was amazing, I would for sure eat here again, but I hope the snotty server is not there or he finally blew his nose :)).

CONCLUSION

Osaka left a very positive impression, maybe because we did not expect much. Even the people seemed different here. In Tokyo everyone were more reserved, wore dark colors, nobody looked you in the eyes while passing by. Osaka was more cheerful, there were more colors and we noticed how people actually were meeting the gaze and not looking right through you. Food was amazing, streets were full of fun decorations and bright lights. Two nights was a good amount of time here – enough to eat, sightsee, shop, and not to get bored!