HIROSHIMA/ITSUKUSHIMA, JAPAN

OVERVIEW

• When: Total trip August 1-18, 2024. Hiroshima/Itsukushima: August 9-10, 2024
• Where (accommodations): Sheraton Grand Hiroshima Hotel
• Transportation: Air Canada from Boston (BOS) to Montreal (YUL) to Tokyo Narita (NRT). Shinkansen train from Kyoto to Hiroshima, Aqua Net ferry from Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park to Itsukushima
• Sights/attractions: Hiroshima: Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum and Park, Atomic Bomb Dome; Itsukushima: Itsukushima torii gate, Momijidani Park, Mount Misen, Shishi-iwa Observatory, Itsukushima Jinja Gojunoto, Senjokaku Pavilion, Omotesando shopping street
• Food/drinks: Itsukushima: Daikonya; Hiroshima: Kantetsu Kyobashi

First atomic bomb nicknamed ‘Little Boy’ was dropped in Hiroshima on August 6th at 8.15 am. Almost 80 000 people were killed instantly. Many of the survivors developed cancer and various complications and died a few years later. Radiation and the many illnesses it caused lasted years, so to say how many people were killed because of this bomb is hard to know. The estimation is around 200 000. However, people persevered. Hiroshima rebuilt from ashes and is a thriving city today. In fact it was completely rebuilt by 1955! There is no risk of radiation now, it is completely safe to visit. When I planned this trip, I knew we would not have much time. But also, to come all this way and to not visit Hiroshima somehow seemed wrong. We wanted to pay our respects, despite knowing that it will be a sad and emotional visit. Ideally we’d spend two nights here, but we only had less than 24 hours, so as per usual fashion, we made an intense itinerary.

The reason you need more time is not for Hiroshima per se. I am sure there are more things to see and do in this city, not just the Peace Memorial Park and Museum. I really wish we had more time on Itsukushima (also known as Miyajima) island. ‘Shrine Island’ or ‘the Island where God lives’ is a short ferry ride away from Hiroshima and is worth spending a full day at. We only had less than half a day, but some is better than none! Lets go over on how to get there and what not to miss.

ACCOMMODATION

Hiroshima is actually easily accessible by Shinkansen bullet train. From Kyoto to Hiroshima was only a 1.5hr pleasant train ride. We stocked up on snacks at 7Eleven and the train station before our departure and arrived to Hiroshima at 10am.

In the stations they sell Ekiben -bento boxes designed for train travel. Some as cute as the one above – shaped like a bullet train. They contain a good amount of mixed snacks and everything was delicious. We saved the train box as a souvenir for our friends boy who loves trains. It makes a perfect toy or a snack box (or both).

Sheraton Grand Hiroshima Hotel is literally 3 min walk from the station. There could not be a better location, especially if you are strapped on time. We came in, left our bags (since rooms were not ready yet), and set off to explore. We saw the rooms only at sunset when we returned. They were comfortable, good size, and there is also a pool/spa which we enjoyed for a bit before dinner.

The morning of our departure we had breakfast, which was delicious, and with the view of the city below. I would for sure recommend this hotel while in Hiroshima.

Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum and Park

As soon as we dropped off the bags we took a taxi to the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum. It was about 15 min taxi ride from the hotel and we purchased tickets online at the entrance. There was a long line waiting to buy tickets at the window, so we went online and after getting the tickets were able to skip the queue and enter the museum.

It is a well organized and detailed museum. There are stories upon stories of those that suffered and died. Some are very emotional and hard to read.

We knew what to expect (sort of). It is not a pleasant visit and could be triggering to some, but we came here to pay our respects and learn some history. We spent a few hours and walked around the museum and then the park.

In the Memorial Park there are several monuments, so take your time visiting them all. Children’s Peace Memorial is lined with paper cranes- little origami which symbolizes world peace.

Of course you can’t miss the Hiroshima Atomic Dome (Genbaku Dome)- the sole structure remaining from the day of the bombing.

It was included in UNESCO’s World Heritage List in December 1996 as a symbol of the devastation caused by the first atomic bomb in the history of humankind. It represents the importance of the abolition of nuclear weapons and lasting world peace.

If you are lucky, you might meet volunteers who had family members that survived the bombing. We noticed little boy with a bright neon vest that said ‘talk to me in English’ or something similar. We figured maybe he just wants to practice his English skills, so we approached him and said ‘hello’. What a treat that we were in for! Shun, a smart 11 yr old, told us (in a very good English!) a story of his great grandmother, showed her photos, and even told us jokes! It was such a pleasant and informative encounter with a young generation from the surviving family. After a sad museum it was like seeing a rainbow after the rain.

Because we only had one day in Hiroshima, we quickly checked out the memorials, but then it was time to get on the ferry and visit the ‘Island where God lives’!

Itsukushima (Miyajima)

Just like Mt Fuji is the symbol of Japan, so is the Itsukushima Shrine Torii gate- the red gate that seems like it’s floating on water is pictured in many books about Japan. I knew that if we make it to Hiroshima, we need to find a way to visit this island as well.

Ideally, you’d spend the whole day here. There is so much to see and do. Also, there a are a couple of ways to get here. Well, both ways are a ferry ride, but from different locations and with different travel time.

Cheaper and shorter ferry (only about 10 min long) is close to Miyajimaguchi Station. However, to get to that station would mean almost 30 min car ride or 45 min train. This option did not work for us. There are two ferry companies that operate that trip.

The second, much more convenient for us, was a ferry that left right from the Peace Memorial Park and took about 45 mins. It is more expensive, but given the fact that we already were at the Peace Memorial, and did not need to take a taxi or train anywhere, was invaluable. I was not able to buy tickets on this ferry online- it seemed like it’s possible to do so if you are speaking Japanese, but for English version there was no option to make a reservation. I did not want to risk it being sold out, so I asked for hotel concierge in Kyoto to help me reserve it. They called, scheduled, and filled out the form for me, which I brought to the ferry terminal and picked up the tickets. The boat at 1pm was not sold out, but if it was, we would’ve had to wait another 30 min and with the short time we had we did not want to risk it.

Ferry back on this boat is by 5.30pm (that boat was sold out), so we booked 5pm return.

We had snacks while waiting for the boat, so that when we arrived to the island we could explore and not be starving.

Four hours is definitely not much time, but it was enough to see the famous Torii gate, visit a shrine and even take the ropeway to the top of Mount Misen! When there is a will, there is a way as they say 🙂 .

Itsukushima Shrine Torii gate

One of the “Three Views of Japan” this huge torii gate is either surrounded by water or is on dry land depending on the tide. When we arrived the tide was high, so it looked like it’s floating. When we were leaving the island, the water reseeded and we saw people approaching the gate. If you have a chance (check the tide schedule in advance) – FOR SURE go during high tide.

The best photos will be from the shore and you can easily get one without any people in it. When the tide goes out, you will be walking up to the gate along side with the rest of the crowds.

Would you rather have a photo on the left, or the one on the right?

When you get to the island you will notice wild deer, just like in Nara. While there, they sold special cookies to feed the deer, in Itsukushima you should not be feeding them. There were no special treats, but we saw people giving them junk- human food, chips etc. There even was a ‘photographer’ who was feeding deer and charging people to take a photo with the deer and the shrine gate in the background. It was very sad to see- simple special cookies in Nara at least were meant for the animals. Doritos chips for sure can’t be good for them. Don’t be that person and don’t feed the wildlife human food just for a photo opportunity.

We spent a bit of time just enjoying the view and taking it all in. I’ve seen this shrine gate in so many photos about Japan. It felt kind of surreal to actually be there!

Mount Misen

Gray clouds were accumulating and we wanted to see the view from the top of the mountain. We walked though the Momijidani Park to the Miyajima Ropeway and took it to the Shishi-iwa Observatory.

We made it just in time- we took some photos, admired incredible views, and as soon as we got down it started pouring! That view up top though was extraordinary!

There are a few hikes you can do from this station and shrines you could visit. Had we had more time we’d done it, but we needed to make the 5pm ferry back to Hiroshima, so it was not possible. Given the fact that it rained soon, it was probably for the better!

Itsukushima Jinja Gojunoto and Senjokaku Pavilion

Itsukushima Jinja Gojunoto is a five- storied pagoda and to reach it you will need to climb some steep stairs.

It is worth the climb! Right next to it there is a big wooden Senjokaku Pavilion. What’s especially interesting about this pavilion is that it has mosaic paintings on it’s ceiling.

We made it right before closing and that was about all we could explore on this island.

Omotesando shopping street

The only thing left on the way to the ferry was a little shopping. Omotesando shopping street has lots of souvenir places, snack shops and maple leaf shaped cookies everywhere. We just needed to try some and stopped at Daikonya. They are called momiji manju and are made from buckwheat and rice flower. Some have red bean paste filling, some not. You can also get them with ice cream (that’s what we did) and they were delicious!

We made it back to Hiroshima and relaxed in the hotel spa for a bit. Since we did not make any dinner reservations, we kind of winged it. A lot of places were closing around 9pm, so we took a taxi to one of the sushi restaurants. Just to be told that they are full for the night. We were just walking down the street (a bit hangry) and noticed the local pub –izakaya. Kantetsu Kyobashi was full of locals (I think we were the only tourists there), it was loud and the food was delicious!

We ordered variety of dishes- from sushi to ramen and everything tasted fresh.

And that is one full day in Hiroshima/ Miyajima. I don’t think we could’ve fit anything else even if we tried!

CONCLUSION

Just as I mentioned at the start of this post- I wish we had a bit more time – one more night would’ve allowed us to explore more of Hiroshima as well as Miyajima. But even if you have one day, it is worth the trip. I can’t say that I loved Hiroshima. Granted we were there for such a short time. But after visiting the Peace Memorial Museum and the Park, all I could think about was the bomb and the aftermath that followed. It’s almost impossible to comprehend that the city was wiped off the face of the earth and yet managed to rebuild in just a decade. On the other hand, we all loved Miyajima. This island really has a lot to offer and no wonder it’s called The Island of God. Shrines and temples, gorgeous views- take it all in and see if you can feel the same magic that we felt while being there.