KYOTO, JAPAN

OVERVIEW

• When: Total trip August 1-18, 2024. Kyoto: August 6-9, 2024
• Where (accommodations): Sora Niwa Terrace Kyoto
• Transportation: Air Canada from Boston (BOS) to Montreal (YUL) to Tokyo Narita (NRT). Shinkansen train from Tokyo to Kyoto
• Sights/attractions: Shirakawa Lane, Old Town- Higashiyama district, Yasaka Pagoda, Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka Streets, Kiyomizu-dera, Kawaramachi district – Pontocho Alley, Gion, Fushimi Inari-taisha, Chopstick Store, Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, Okochi Sanso Garden, Gio-ji temple, Saga Torrimmoto Preserved Street, Adashino Nenbutsu-ji, Otagi Nenbutsu-ji, Arashiyama Monkey Park, Nishiki Market
• Food/drinks: Benoit Kyoto, K36, Sen, Vermillion Cafe, Taishitei Kiyamachi, Wagyu Sukiyaki Hiroshige, L’Escamoteur Bar, Kacto

I dreamt of visiting Kyoto ever since I read “Memoirs of Geisha” many years ago. It is not as mysterious and authentic as it used to be- Kyoto now is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Japan. It became so popular that locals requested more privacy and therefore some of the streets are closed for non residents, particularly in Gion, which is famous for geisha entertainers.

Busy or not, to make it all the way to Japan and to not visit Kyoto would be a lifelong regret. We spent three nights here (with a half day trip to Nara) and I wish we had one or two more.

After four nights in Tokyo we are going on our first bullet train in Japan! We booked the tickets on Shinkansen departing Tokyo at 9.18am and were in Kyoto at 11.29am. 445km or 276 miles on Nozomi train took less that 2.5 hours!

How to book Shinkansen train tickets in advance read more in my Tokyo Drift post. But essentially I used smartEX app and then distributed the tickets by assigning each person’s Suica card number. Trains run often and are precisely on time, but they do sell out during the busy season and if you want a guaranteed seat with the space for the luggage, I’d recommend booking in advance. We bought tickets on the Green car (equivalent to Business Class)- as you can see, the seats were huge, there was so much leg room and we only wished the journey lasted longer! Also, you can eat on these trains, so stock up on the snacks at the station.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Initially we booked Kyoto Machiya Zeniyacho– a traditional Japanese house with a couple of rooms and a private onsen. It operates like a hotel, but it’s technically a Japanese inn. This stay was about to be very expensive and, when my sister and brother-in-law decided to join us, there were no rooms available in this place. We contemplated staying in separate accommodations, but the location of their hotel was a bit better for sightseeing, and the price was a third of what traditional machiya would’ve cost, so we changed our plans. At the end, it was very nice to stay together, especially when we had so many things to explore and could use the taxi from one place, spend evenings in the spa etc.

Sora Niwa Terrace Kyoto is a five star hotel and we have no regrets staying there. Short taxi ride from the Kyoto station, easy walking distance to the Old Town and the most popular sights. It also has an onsen– hot baths that rotate daily in terms of the men and women side.

One side has an open air view of the river, while the other has no view. To make it equally enjoyable for both genders, they switch it every day. Of course if you are staying only one night, then you will only see one side, but since we were there for three, we got to spend time on both sides- with and without the view. Nobody had any issues with tattoos here, but everyone was still naked (men and women separately of course).

The rooms are very small, but cozy. Large rooftop terrace with a foot spa was a lovely place to relax after long days of sightseeing.

These robes are provided and technically you could walk around with them even outside of the hotel, we saw people do that and we were told it’s OK.

One thing to mention- my necklace disappeared at this hotel from the jewelry box that was in my backpack. I have no proof of anything, but one day, once we returned from a day touring, I found my earring in a random place in the bathroom. The earring that I have not worn on this trip yet and kept in the jewelry box. I thought it was odd, given the fact that I never took the box from the backpack and did not have it in the bathroom. I put the earring back, but did not inspect of what might be missing. A couple days later I wanted to wear this necklace and it was nowhere to be found. I recall putting it in the box and based on my photos I did not wear it since, but it was gone. Now months back after the trip I still did not find it, so I am pretty sure it was lifted here and by doing so, the earring must have fallen out, hence I found it out of place.

I called the hotel, they claimed they did not find any necklaces, but I did not expect them to. We never ever felt unsafe in Japan and never used safe box for valuables. Maybe this was a good lesson to be a bit more careful and lock up some things while touristing around. It would not stop me from staying at this hotel, just be mindful of this and lock anything that could be easily stolen in the safe.

Exploring historic Kyoto

It was close to noon by the time we dropped off our bags and started exploring this magical city. Our rooms were not ready yet, so to not waste time we started our self guided tour. We walked by the historical Potoncho Alley located along Kamo-gawa River in Kyoto’s downtown.

This street was very quiet during the day, but comes alive in the evenings and especially weekends. It is one of the historical Geisha districts, so we hoped to get a glimpse of a Geisha (no such luck).

Geisha are female Japanese performing artists and entertainers, trained in traditional dance, music and singing. They are also proficient conversationalists and hosts with a specific outfits and makeup. I was on a lookout for them the whole time in Kyoto, but I think the only way to see a real geisha would be to book a ticket to the performance, which we did not have enough time for…

Shirakawa Lane is called one of the most beautiful streets in Kyoto, so we walked there next. Very peaceful, calm and not as touristy as expected.

This whole area was beautiful- typical wooden houses, exactly what I pictured Japan (Kyoto) would be!

As expected it was a hot day, so to find some reprieve we wandered into some shops along the way. One of them was Tozando Gion-Yasaka – knife/sword store selling real samurai swords, some as expensive as 25 000 USD.

We did not get a sword, but Cosimo purchased a very nice pocket knife there!

And now we are approaching Higashiyama district (between Kiyomiz-udera and Yasaka Pagoda).

You cannot miss Yasaka Pagoda at the heart of Kyoto. We are covering the street below, so it looks like it’s just us here. Trust me, there were a LOT of people. Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka Streets are great for some shopping and snacks, but it does get crowded.

Either way, this area is not to be missed.

We needed lunch, so decided to go to K36 rooftop, because I read that they open at 2pm. However, when we showed up, we were told that it’s not until 3. Luckily right near it we saw Benoit Kyoto – French restaurant, which was open and there was no wait to be seated. We did not have it as a place to go, but it turned out to be a delicious lunch!

By the end we did not need any more food, but still wanted to see the view from the rooftop, so returned to K36. I’d describe the place as a bit snooty. Nobody was there, no people waiting to be seated. I asked if I can see the view and I was allowed to only small corner of the terrace. To go further (and of course better view) I would need to pay a cover charge and have a mandatory drink!

I took a picture from the limited area where we did not have to pay and left.

We had dinner reservations at 6.30 pm and still had one more temple to visit – Kiyomiz-udera– another MUST see in Kyoto. It was approaching sunset and this area was very busy, but still beautiful.

Walk up the steps for the sweeping views of the city below.

And now it’s time to go check into the hotel, shower and enjoy a long, multi course traditional Kaiseki dinner at Sen.

We selected a sake pairing for the three of us and it was a wonderful experience! Dishes were creative and delicious, everything freshly made right in front of us- we could not ask for a better first night in Kyoto!

Sen is a small restaurant with a limited counter space, so book WELL IN ADVANCE. It has one Michelin star in the Michelin guide and deservingly so!

To end the night we walked by the Potoncho Alley, which looked very cozy, but a lot of places were closing by this time, so we went back to the hotel and enjoyed the spa. Long but rewarding day!

Fushimi Inari hike

Fushimi Inari-taisha shrine is one of the most famous shrines in Kyoto and one of the oldest in Japan. It was built around 711 A.D. and has expanded since. If you only want to see the shrine then it’s a very close walk from the train station (we took a 20 min taxi from our hotel).

The ‘fun’ part is the actual hike to the top of 233m Mt. Inari-san and the walk through the thousands of torii gates and smaller shrines leading to the top. We knew it will be another hot day and I’ve heard how busy this place gets, so we started as early as we could manage – right around 8am. It was already warm, but not scorching hot yet and not super crowded.

We were able to take photos without having to wait for people to walk by. There are many steps, but it’s not a hard hike. For us the most bothersome part was the heat and sweat. Guys sweated through their T-shirts completely and ended up buying new ones along the way.

Luckily the path is mostly shaded by the trees, but by the end of it we all were dripping sweat.

There is a nice view point along the hike, but not from the very top of the mountain. I liked the hike and felt accomplished after, but don’t expect some sort of culmination once you reach the top. This hike is more about enjoying the journey and not the destination.

There are many fox (kitsune) sculptures along the way. Fushimi-Inari-Taisha is for the god Inari, which is the god of the rice harvest, commerce and business. The messenger of the god Inari is the fox. They sometimes have a key in their mouth, which represents the key to the rice storehouse in ancient times.

The whole hike (round trip) took us around two hours. We did not run, but also did not rest much either. By 10am sun was very strong and there were a lot more people, so we were glad we started this hike early. Doing it earlier probably would be even better. We met a family that hiked it at night- I don’t know about that one. They liked it, but I would not want to be in the dark trying to not trip on so many stairs!

After the long hike we deserve a strong breakfast. Perfect place is near by- Vermillion Cafe. At 10am it was not crowded and the food was delicious!

Before you leave this area of Kyoto, make sure to stop by the Chopstick Store (63-4 Fukakusa Inari Nakanocho). In less than 30 min you can get multiple chopsticks engraved (we chose to engrave names, but in Japanese). Perfect souvenir to bring home for yourself and the sushi loving friends! There are a lot of designs and different materials. We made sure ours are dishwasher safe, but also engravable.

After a bit of shopping we went to Inari Station and took the train to Nara. From Kyoto to Nara train ride is just under an hour and runs every 30 min or so. I will have a separate post about that, but it’s a great half a day trip while staying in Kyoto!

First Wagyu Beef in Kyoto

After our Nara excursion we returned to Kyoto for dinner and had a great meal right near our hotel at Taishitei Kiyamachi. We were very tired and did not want to walk far. We also wanted wagyu beef and this place had it, so it was a win-win!

It’s not a fancy establishment but we had a delicious dinner.

ARASHIYAMA

Our third and last day in Kyoto. Time is flying by, but still so much to see and do! Today we’ll go more into nature and explore the western outskirts of Kyoto- beautiful and peaceful Arashiyama.

When I planned this trip, this part was ‘start at 6am, because it gets crowded’. We did not start at 6am. The trip has been intense, hot, with many sights and activities and we just could not get up this early. We took a 20 min taxi and got off right near Arashiyama Bamboo Forest at 9.40 am and were fully aware that the place might be full of tourists.

Of course there were people, but not the massive crowds I expected.

The path is not long and a lot of people just take pictures of bamboo and leave. Do NOT make this mistake. Continue on, the best is yet to come!

Okochi Sanso Garden

A short walk, literally a minute after the Bamboo Forest ends you will see entrance to the Okochi Sanso Garden. There is a fee to enter, but it’s not much and worth it.

There was nobody there, only a few people showed up as we were leaving. Very peaceful, beautiful garden. There is a room to rest and you can have as much tea as you want- machine had multiple kinds of Japanese green tea, both cold and hot options.

Compared to this garden, Bamboo forest seemed pretty lame.

Lotus field and Gioji temple

Continuing the path, we came across the beautiful blooming lotus flower field.

I don’t know if there is a season for the blooms, but we got very lucky to see it.

About 10 min later we reached Gioji temple. It’s a very small temple with a moss covered garden. I don’t know if this temple worth it, but since we were already there, we checked it out.

Saga- Toriimoto Preserved Street

Next on this walking tour- Saga- Toriimoto Preserved Street. It’s a quiet car free street with some cute shops and 19th century traditional wooden buildings.

We cooled off in the store’s AC and less than 10 min later reached yet another temple- Adashino Nenbutsuji.

Adashino Nenbutsuji

This Buddhist temple is said to have been founded by the monk Kukai around the 8th century. It is believed that the approximately 8,000 stone images and pagodas here commemorate the souls of those who died without kin.

Just as the previous places it was quiet and peaceful, often missed by tourists who just stop at the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest and leave this area. Talking about bamboos- this place has it’s own little bamboo path, much better for photos than the bigger, more famous counterpart.

10 more minutes walk and we are approaching the last temple for today. And I think our favorite!

Otagi Nenbutsu-ji temple

Another Buddhist temple with a collection of 1200 unique and whimsical Rakan statues.

This temple was rebuilt and moved from a different location. It was destroyed by floods and had all kinds of misfortunes. However, in 1955 a new priest was appointed and the fortune has changed. Not only was he a priest, but also a sculptor. He came up with the idea that visitors should carve their own sculptures for the temple with his guidance.

Covered in moss these Buddha figures look much older than they are and all are done by amateurs. Some are very cute and funny, so you can spend a long time here finding your favorite one. We really enjoyed this place and glad we were not lazy to walk up this way.

And now it’s time to make our way back. It’s too hot to walk so we grabbed a taxi and tried to have lunch at Arashiyama Itsukichaya. Unfortunately we did not have a reservation and the place with the view of the river was fully booked. We snacked on near by sold daifuku strawberries (dessert we liked in Tokyo) and a hot dog from the stand. Was not much of a lunch, but it will hold us over for now.

Arashiyama Monkey Park

We debated whether it’s worth going to this park, but per online info it was so close . We figured we are here already, might as well see it.

But then we saw the stairs. And MORE stairs. Mind you now it’s mid day and we are super hot. It said 20 min walk, but it for sure did NOT feel like 20 min. It seemed like we are climbing forever and there are no monkeys in sight. Eventually we felt like we have to make it to the top since we already put so much effort into it.

And yes, the view was VERY nice. And there were a bunch of monkeys playing and running around. And swimming in a little pond. But had we known how long and steep this hike is, we would not have done it. So be warned and decide accordingly.

Nishiki Market

We really needed food and Nishiki Market has it all, so we took a cab straight there. Sweaty and gross, but shower will have to wait. This market closes at 6pm and we have not really had lunch, so we basically sat down in the first restaurant that we saw. Wagyu Sukiyaki Hiroshige as the name implies served wagyu beef and it was delightful!

Where as the night before we cooked the meat on the little grill ourselves, here we had a person doing that for us. It was interesting that the sauce had sugar in it and that we dipped the cooked meat into the raw egg yolk.

In general this market was great- lots of shops, food vendors, we did not have too much energy to shop, but it was a fun place to visit.

We relaxed at the hotel, went to the onsen for a bit and it was already evening. Our last night in this charming city…

L’Escamoteur

There are many amazing bars in Kyoto and I really wanted to try at least one. L’Escamoteur is a super cool place that was a few min walk from the hotel, so it was a no brainer.

Very interesting decor, super fun bartenders, excellent drinks! Their bathroom is hidden behind the shelf and if you ask (and you most definitely should ask)- bartenders will do some magic while creating your cocktail! Fire, smoke, a bit of acting- we really enjoyed this place.

For dinner we did not walk far either- Kacto was open and we had a nice quick meal.

Tomorrow we have another long day with a train to Hiroshima, so no partying all night!

CONCLUSION

Kyoto was easily our favorite city in Japan. We liked Tokyo and also unexpectedly loved Osaka, but Kyoto just has its unique charm. Despite my daily search for geisha we did not see any, but apart from that it exceeded our expectations. I was worried it will be overly congested, but maybe because we went during the hot summer season it was manageable. We really loved the old streets and the quiet part of the Arashiyama. I think maybe having one more day, seeing a geisha show, exploring old streets at night would have been nice. But three nights and a half day in Nara gave us a good taste of it. Maybe we will return some day, but now, off to Hiroshima.